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THE GREAT SOUTHWEST, 

V 

OR n.AIN J^ 

(JUIDE FOR EMIGRANTS AND CAPITALISTS, 

EMBllACINC A DICSCKI I'TION OF THE STATES OF 

MISSOUm AND KANSAS, 

SHOWING THEIR 

TopoKraphical Features, Climate, Soil, Timber, Prairie, Minerals, 
Water, Amount of Government Lands, Location of Valu- 
able Mineral Lands, the Various Railroad Lines 
Completed and Projected, Table of Distances, 
Homestead Law, with incidents of 



Residence in Missouri and Kansas, 

AND OTHER VALUABLE INFORMATION. 

ALSO A 

New and ConiDlcte Towiisliiii fflai) of Missonrl aul Rausas. 



BY WII.SON NICKLY. ^r r„ 



1887 



^ ST. LOUIS- 
R. r. STum.KV & Co., riUNTliiia ano Bindf.ks, Cor. Main and Olivf, Stkeets. 

1867. 



^ 
"< ^ 

^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, l>y 
WILSON NICELY, 

In the Clerk's Office of the United States District Court for tlie 
Eastern District of Missouri. 




CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

TO THE HEADEli.— Treasures at IIoiuo— Practical Advantagos— Uncle's 

Farm 5-S 

liKNERAL DESCIUPTION OF MISSOUlfT.— I(s MaKiiiliuU— Lalilu.le- 

Teinperatiire 7 

NOKTII l\riS,SOURI.— TiniI.er— Soil— Agrloiillural Advantages — :^^!Ileral— 
Coal, Lead, Iron— Oil— AVater—Coniinerciat Advantages- Towns— St. -lo- 
sei)li, Hannibal ". 7-10 

SOUTHEUX JllSSOUm.— AVater— Soil— Timber- The Mineral Ilesonrces of 
Sontlieast Slissourl— 'Location of Jliuerals-Irou— Lead— Copper— Gold- 
Clays, etc.— Connnercial Facilities— Cities— Towns— Railroads 11-15 

SOUTHWEST IMISSOURI.- Area— The Topography— The Timber— Soil- 
Fruits— Grasses— Tlic Water— Rivers— Springs— Grand Palls— Caves— 
< i rand Scenery — Deer — Game — Fish — Northern Arkansas — Fruits — IJIrds — 
Tlie Mineral Resources— Ijocation— Coal— Oil— Lead— Iron— Copper-Sil- 
ver — The Connnercial Facilities — Railroads — Towns — Churches — Schools — 
(iovernment Land 15-2G 

TWEXTV-SIX COUNTIES OF SOUTHWEST MISSOURI.— Rarry— P.ar- 
ton— Bates— Benton — Canidou — Cedar— Christian— Dado —Dallas — Dong- 
lass — ( i recne — Henry — Hickory — .Tasper — Laclede — Lawrence — McDon- 
ald — Newton — Oz.ark — Polk — St. Clair — Stone — Taney — Vernon — W<'1>- 
ster— Wright— Tables of Distances by Railroad and River 27-49 

STATISTICAL TABLES 50-55 

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF KANSAS.— Area-Topography— Soil— Tim- 
ber — Minerals — W.ater — Government Land — Railroads — Churches — 
Schools— Commercial Advantages 56-5tf 



TWO YEARS' TRAVEL AND RESIDENCE IN MISSOURI 
AND KANSAS. 
CHAPTER I.— Introductory— A Night at West Qulncy— A Happy Couple- 
Railroad Adventure— The Iron Horse Gives Out— Bushwhackers— Ar- 
rival at Macon— Dry Jokes— St. Joseph, Its Prosperitj-- Weston— Steamer 
Emily— Arrival at Leavenworth ; CO-CG 

CHAPTER II.— Leavenworth, Its Situation, Commerce, Population, Signs of 
Prosperity, the Fort, Pilot Knob Cemetery— A Journey by Stage Coach— 
A Rich Country— Topcka, Description— Modern Pioneers— " The Univer- 
B.al Yankee"— Tecumseli, a City of the Past — Lawrence, if» History, 
Quantrell's Raid. Present Prosperity 66-71 



CONTENTS. 



SOUTHWESTERN KANSAS. 



PACE. 



CHAPTER III— Baldwin City— Prairie City— Oliio City— Garrett— Loroy— 
Burliiigtdn — Ottuinwa — llartt'ord — Neoslio RapUis — Qualvor Settle- 
ment— Emporia Slate Normal School — Couucil Grove— Fort Riley — 
Imlians— Pacific Railroad Lands— Coal Mines— Topeka 71-75 

CHAPTER IV.— At Lawrence— News of Lee's Surrendei^— Puljlic Rejoic- 
ing— The Assassination of Lincoln— Sudden Revulsion of Peeling- Tiie 
Grief of a Nation — From Lawrence to Leavenworth — Delaware Re- 
serve—Indian Tribes— Elfect of Civilization- Santa Fe Trains- Atchi- 
son— An Indian Preacher, his Tlieory Concerning tlie Failure of Slis- 
sionaries— Atchison County — Jackson County— Topeka— Burlingame — 
Ridgeway — Twin Mounds — Clinton— J. A. Beam— ISloomington — Osage 
Hedges— Dairies 75-81 

CHAPTER v.— An Expedition to tlie Cherokee Neutral Lands, tlie Outfit, 
Object- J. A. Beam and his Tiieorles— Constitution of tlie Progressive 
Fraternity— The Rendezvous at Lawrence— Tlie First Niglit in Camji — 
Prairie City— Stanton— Osage River— Tlie Doctor's Adventure— Miami 
County— Twin Springs— Linn Connty— Paris— Moneka— Mound City- 
Fort Lincoln— Fort Scott 82-89 

CHAPTER VI.— The ailssouri Border— Jasper County— A Depopulated 
Region— Ripe Fruits— Pure Water- Ricli Soil— Camp on Spring River — 
Natural Vineyards— Deserted Homes — Camii on Slioai Creek— Reiling's 
Mill — Gr.and Falls on Shoal Creek — Beautiful Scenery — Clierokee 
Farm — A Cherokee — General Appearance of the Country— Return — 
Cow Creek— Delayed by 11 igli Water— Return to Fort Scott— Again at 
Lawrence 89-93 

CHAPTER VII.— Return to Spring River— Refii gees Returning Home- 
Scarcity of Houses— Camp at the Mouth of Centre Creek— On Spring 
River— Building a Cabin— Gathering Hay for the Winter- Abundance 
of Game— Hunting Adventures- Wild Hogs— Doer— A Dead Sliot— Tlie 
Osago Indians .as Hunters— A Burning Prairie— Vivid Description— A 
Herd of Deer— Winter Evenings—" The Good Time Coming" 94-99 

C;HAPTER VIII.— Expedition to Arkansas— Reding's Mill— Neosho— Pine- 
vllle— A Dilapidated Village— Camp on Big Sugar Creek— Beautiful 
Winter Scene— A Rich Country— Ciimato Mild— Myriads of Birds- 
Winter Grapes— Benton Connty— Absence of the Schoolmaster— Human 
Vegetables- A "Native" Rip Van Winkleism— Madison County— Car- 
roll County— Fruit-Soil— Cllmate~Our Return to Spring River— Bax- 
ster's Springs— Fertility and Value of the Lands knomi as the " Gov- 
ernment Strip "—Conclusion —" Homes for AH " 99-100 

IMPORTANT QUESTIONS ANSWERED 107-111 

HOMESTEAD LAW 112-115 



TO THE READER. 



The groat interest now being awakened witli regard to 
Missouri and Kansas must be taken as a suflicient apology 
for the publication of this book. No other States, not 
excepting even Nevada and California, have attracted so 
much attention, or become so much the theme of remark 
and inquiry as these. Geographically, they occup}^ a cen- 
tral position in the habitable part of the continent, forming 
virtually the heart of the country. The climate, soil, and 
resources of these States are worthy of this honorable 
position. No part of the Union is more fertile or better 
watered, and but few are more salubrious. AVhy go to the 
Gulf States or to the Pacific coast in quest of treasures 
that are hidden at our own doors — that are buried beneath 
our own feet? Why neglect the practical advantages 
within our reach for the possible good afar off? Men need 
not go to Texas or Oregon for homes when thousands of . 
acres of the richest and most productive land on the con- 
tinent are lying idle in Missouri and Kansas. The eye of 
the - speculator is unhappily adjusted only for viewing 
remote objects. Its range is telescopic, and hence the 
images of all near objects are blurred and indistinct. It 
is with the purpose of correcting such defects of vision that 
this book has been prepared. The author would place 
before his readers, in a clear, succinct manner, a correct 
and faithful description of home lands. The}' may lack 
the novelty and romance pertaining to lands remote, but 
they possess practical advantages which foreign regions do 
not possess. 
1 



6 PREFACE. 

Will the reader bear in mind, that of the extensive farm 
owned by our generous "uncle," the broad acres in the 
central portion are the richest and best ? In time this will 
be acknowledged, but now it must be demonstrated by 
facts and figures. Such of these as came under his obser- 
vation the author has collected and arranged, and in so 
doing has been more anxious to secure accuracy Of state- 
ments than beauty of diction, or grace of style. He has 
aimed at precision rather than elegance, for his object has 
been rather to give information than amusement to the 
reader. 

The book is not written in the interest of any Railroad 
Cor})oration, Emigrant Aid Society, or Real Estate Com- 
pany', nor has any aid been received from these or any 
other agencies. The work has been issued solely at the 
expense of the author, and for its statements he alone is 
responsible. 

The author has added to tlie work, at a heavy expense, 
a valual)le map of Missouri and Kansas, which will be 
found useful to the general reader, and especially useful to 
travelers or persons seeking homes. The map, which has 
been carefully and elaborately prepared, represents county 
and township divisions, and gives besides all the count}^ 
roads, railroads, towns, and villages within the localities 
described. The book contains also useful tables, giving 
information regarding the government and mineral lands 5 
distances between important points, etc. These are some 
of the points in which the author believes this book pos- 
sesses a real value to those seeking information, and that 
it will not be without interest to the general reader. 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF MISSOURI. 



Tlie State of Missouri, -wuich is nearly the geographical 
center of the continent, lies in the heart of the valley of 
the Mississippi, its eastern borders being washed for a dis- 
tance of more than four hundred and fifty miles by the 
Great Father of Waters, thus occupying a position of 
commercial importance unsurpassed by any State in the 
Union. 

The State has an area of about G 7,500 square miles, or 
43,200,000 acres of land. The State contains about 
22,000 square miles more than the State of New York, 
and is about eight times the sijce of Massachusetts. 

Missouri lies between the parallels 3G.30 and 40.36 
north latitude ; it is proverbial for the salubrity of its cli- 
mate, it having the mean temperatui'e of the temperate 
zone. The sunmiers are long and pleasant ; the winters 
short and mild. The topography of the State presents 
such a varied aspect, that in order to give the reader any- 
thing like a correct idea of the physical features of the 
country, we deem it necessary' in this description to sepa- 
rate the State into districts, which we shall term North 
and South Missouri, the Missouri River being the divid- 
ing line. 

NORTHERN MISSOURI 

Mas 44 counties with an average of 440 square miles each. 
The face of the country is undulating and rolling, with but 
very few hills of any considerable magnitude. 

The Avestern portion of this district is very agx'eeably 
diversified with prairie and timber lands, there being about 
an equal portion of each ; but in the central and eastern 



8 MISSOURI AND KANSAa. 

portions timber is less plentiful, with the exception of a 
few counties bordering on the Mississippi River, which are 
covered with a very luxuriant growth of for(;st trees, con- 
sisting of black, white, and burr oak, black and white 
walnut, hickory, elm, maple, ash, wild cherry, honey 
locust, mulberry, pecan, cottonwood, etc. This portion of 
the State is destitute of pine, hemlock, etc. ; but of the 
species enumerated, and many others, there is an inex- 
haustible supply, and the former, with a trifling expense, 
is floated down the Mississippi to the various ports in 
Missouri from the extensive pineries of AVisconsin and 
Minnesota. Good building stone abounds in this as in 
every other portion of the State ; material for making 
brick is also plentiful, as the many rich and substantial 
business houses and dwellings testify. 

THE SOIL 

In the western portion can scarcely be excelled. It is 
very productive, and is well adapted to the culture of the 
various grains and fruits. The country is sufficiently 
rolling to be well drained, while as before remarked, there 
are few hills of any magnitude, and these are principally 
along the bank of the Missouri River, but constitute by no 
means a leading feature of the countiy bordering on that 
noble stream, for its bottom lands are extensive and fer- 
tile, often reaching back in gentle undulations far as the eye 
can reach. North Missouri is generally denominated the 
agricultural portion of the State, and perhaps deservedly 
so ; for certain it is that the same area of country can 
scarcely be found in this or any other State possessing 
superior agricultural advantages. The soil is as rich and 
fertile as any in the "West, and is peculiarly adapted to the 
culture of the various cereals, grasses, fruits, and vege- 
tables of this latitude, yielding from 40 to 100 bushels of 
corn per acre ; from 1 5 to 45 of wheat and rye ; from 20 to 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 9 

40 of oats and barley. Hoiii]) and flax yield a profit, under 
the old system of hackling, of from 25 to 50 dollars per 
acre, while 200 dollars per acre for tobacco is considered 
a very ordinary crop. 

This portion of the State has unsnrpassed facilities for 
stock growing. Farmers are devoting much of their atten- 
tion to this important branch of industry, and hundreds of 
car loads of stock are annually shipped to St. Louis and 
Eastern cities. The least attractive and, perhaps, most 
inferior portion of Missouri, is included within the limits 
of a few counties in the extreme eastern part of the State, 
where the surface is much broken, presenting many nar- 
row ridges and knolls. These lands are thought by many 
to be compai-atively worthless, but thej' are especially 
adapted to the culture of the grape, and many other fruits, 
and if devoted to that interest could be made to yield as 
large a profit as the heavier and richer soils. 

THE MIXERAL RESOURCES 

Of Northern Missouri, though not so vast as those of the 
Southern portion, are nevertheless important. Coal is 
found in 19 counties, to-wit : Callaway, Carroll, Chariton, 
Clarke, Gentry, Howard, Lincoln, Linn, Livingston, 
Marion, Mercer, Monroe, Pike, Putnam, Ray, St. Charles, 
Shelby, and Worth. Lead is found in considerable 
deposits in the counties of Carroll, Howard, Knox, .Mont- 
gomery, and Schuj'ler. Iron in Knox and Mercer, and 
copper in Gentry and Livingston. There are several oil 
wells in successful operation, and throughout North Mis- 
souri indications of oil are numerous. 



No section of country, of equal extent, affords a greater 
number of fine streams of pure water. It is bordered on 
thi'ee sides by navigable rivers, east by the Mississippi, 



10 MISSOURI AND KANSAS, 

south and west by the Missouri, while the smaller creeks 
and rivers tributary to those streams are almost innumer- 
able. 

THE COAIMEKCIAI. ADVANTAGKS 

Of Northern JNIissoiui are great, and rapidly increasing in 
importance. The district is bounded on the east, south, 
and west bj^ navigable waters. The Hannibal and St. Joe 
Railroad passes through its center from east to west ; the 
North Missouri Railroad running from St. Louis north to 
Macon City, connects with the Hannibal and St. Joe Rail- 
road, and is being rapidly extended north from Macon to 
tap the Iowa roads ; a branch is also being pushed west to 
Brunswick on the JNIissouri River. The Platte County 
Railroad connects St. Joe with Weston on the Missouri 
River ; the St. Joe and Council Bluffs Railroad is com- 
pleted to Savannah ; the Great Western Railroad has also 
extended its line from West Quincy, on the Mississippi, to 
Palmyra, where it intersects the Hannibal and St. Jo(^ 
Railroad. 

TOWNS. 

The principal commercial towns of North Missouri are 
Hannibal arid St. Joseph. The former is situated on the 
bank of the Mississippi, and is the eastern terminus of the 
Hannibal and St. Joe Railroad, and is a place of consid- 
erable importance, containing about 8,000 inhabitants, 1 1 
churches, 5 select schools, 3 public schools, and a Catholic 
seminary, 1 daily and 2 weekly newspapers. St. Josephs 
on the Missouri River, is the western terminus of the Han- 
nibal and St. Joe Railroad, and contains about 20,000! 
inhabitants, being second in size and importance to St. 
Louis. It is an extensive shipping point, is suiTounded 
by a rich and attractive country, and is rapidly increasing 
in wealth and influence. Besides these there are in every . 
county fine flourishing towns and villages. ;^ 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 11 



SOUTHERN MISSOURI. 



What is here denominated Southern Missouri is bounded 
on the north by the Missouri River, east by the Missis- 
sippi, on the south by Arkansas, and west by Kansas and 
Indian Territory, including seventy counties. For our 
own convenience, as well as to give the reader a more 
definite idea of the topography of Southern Missouri, we 
will form two divisions by drawing a line from Jefferson 
City south to the Arkansas border, at the point where the 
east fork of White River leaves the State of Missouri. 
The physical features of these sections are in many 
respects dissimilar ; the eastern portion generall}^ rolling 
and often hilly, and that part ])ordering on Arkansas hilly, 
and in many places mountainous. There are, however, 
many water courses bordered by rich, alluvial bottoms in 
the northwestern part of this district ; and extending south 
near to the Arkansas line are many extensive and beauti- 
ful table lands, which form a leading feature in the topog- 
raphy of this region ; while in the extreme southeast there 
is a large proportion of fertile prairie. 

THE sou- 

In the eastern portion of Southern Missouri is much 
varied ; that along the banks of the numerous water 
courses is exceedingly rich and fertile, while that on the 
uplands is of lighter nature, but is well adapted to the cul- 
ture of the small grains and of fruit. In the northeast 
there are several counties bordering on the Mississippi and 
Missouri rivers which will compare favorably with any in 
the State. The soil is very rich and productive, and all 
the various grains and fruits grow to perfection. Hemp, 
cotton, and tobacco are successfully grown, and it is safe 
to assert that no section of country can surpass this part 
of the State in tlie culture of the grape. There are 



12 MISSOURI 4ND KANSAS. 

experienced vine dressers at Hermann, and otiier points, 
who have thoroughly tested the soil for grape culture, and 
they regard this region as the best grape growing locality 
on the continent. Flax, castor bean, and many other 
valuable productions, too numerous to mention, are suc- 
cessfully raised, and are a source of great profit. 

TlIK TIMIJEK 

Of Southeast Missouri surpasses that of any other section 
of the Western States. Her forests are as extensive and 
varied, and in the course of a very few years will be a 
source of unbounded wealth. Her forests comprise all 
the various species found in other portions of the State, 
such as black, white, and burr oak, of a very superior 
growth and quality, red, Spanish, water, and pin oak, 
hickory, hackberiy, walnut, sycamore, elm, mulberry, etc, ; 
but of far more importance than all these are her vast 
forests of yellow pine, which are of verj' flne growth and 
quality, and extend through quite a number of counties 
in the south central portion of the State. 

THE MINERAL RESOURCES 

Of Southeast Missouri are beyond all estimate, both as to 
their value and extent. There are huge mountains of 
almost solid iron, rich and extensive veins of copper, 
silver, zinc, lead,- nickel, and almost every variety of 
valuable metals. The mineral wealth of Southeast Mis- 
souri, though known to exist, is 3'et far from being fully 
developed. Notwithstanding there are more that 200 lead 
mines now being worked, many of which have been in 
operation for more than 30 years, still new leads of rich 
ore are being discovered almost everj'^ week. Stone of 
nearly every description, of any known value, is scattered 
profusely over the whole countiy. Coal is also found in 
large quantities in several of the northeastern counties of 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 13 

South Missouri, and the city of St. Louis is being supplied 
with thousands of tons annually from these mines. For 
the benefit of those of our readers, who feel interested in 
the subject of minerals, we will give a few statistics in 
relation to the 

LOCATION OF MINERALS, IRON, LEAD, ETC., 

Taken from Professor Swallow's Geological Report of his 
survey of the State of Missouri. 

Iron. — There are in Jefterson county thi-ee discoveries 
of iron, located in township 39, range 6 and 4 ; in Frank- 
lin county iron is found in seven localities, townships 41 
and 42, range 1 and 2 ; in Crawford county there are 
eighteen localities, townships 35, 37, 39, and 38, range 2, 
3, 4, 5, and 6 ; and in Phelps county there are ten locali- 
ties, townships 36, 37, and 39, range 6, 7, and 8 ; in 
Pulaski county there are four localities, townships 36 and 

37, range 11 and 12. It is also found in Ironton county, 
and many others. 

Lead. — There are in Jetferson county forty-one locali- 
ties where lead is found, in townships 38, 39, 40, and 41, 
range 3, 4, 5, and 6 ; in "Washington county forty-four 
localities, townships 30, 37, 38, 39, and 40, range 36, 37, 

38, and 39 ; in Franklin county there are thirty-seven 
localities, townships 40, 41, and 42, range 1 and 2 ; in 
Crawford county there are thirty-six localities, townships 
36,37, 38, 39, 40, and 41, range 1 and 2; in Phelps 
county there are seven localities, townships 36 and 39, 
range 7, 8, and 9. Lead is also found in abundance in 
many other counties. 

Copper is found in Franklin county in five difl'erent 
localities, townships 40 and 41, range 1 and 2 ; in Craw- 
ford *county eight localities, in townships 36, 38, 39, and 
40, range 2, 3, 4, and 5. 



14 mSSOURI AND KANSAS. 

The above data will serve to give the reader some idea 
of the inexhaustible wealth of Southeast Missouri. 

Gold. — Nothing is being done toward developing the 
gold mines of Southeast Missoiu'i, and yet, from assays 
that have been made by Professor F. Weiss, and others, it 
is evident that mines are being worked in California to-day 
which yield a smaller profit than would those of Southeast 
Missouri. 

Clay, etc. — Vast mounds and beds of clay of the most 
valuable kinds are found in the southeast, from which the 
finest wares are manufactured. There are also vast 
mounds of the finest quality of white sand, immense 
quantities of which are annuall}^ shipped to Pittsburgh, 
Pa., to be used in the manufacture of glass. It is indeed 
impossible to form an estimate, or even an approximate 
estimate, of the mineral wealth of Southeast Missouri. 

THE COMMERCIAL FACILITIES 

Of this section are extensive and rapidly improving. The 
Mississippi River washes its entire eastern border ; the 
Missouri its northern, while the St. Francois and Little 
rivers aftbrd an outlet for the productions of the southern 
portion. Add to these advantages the Cairo and Fulton, 
the St. Louis and Iron Mountain, and the Atlantic and 
Pacific Railroad, and the facilities of Southeast Missouri 
for commerce become apparent to every one. Its chief 
shipping point is vSt. Louis, which is situated on the 
western bank of the Mississippi, a few miles below the 
confluence of that stream and the Missouri. 

CITIES AND TOWNS. 

St. Louis is the largest inland citj^ on the continent, 
having a population of over 200,000, with upwards of 60 
churches, and more than 30 miles of street railway. The 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 15 

city extends about seven miles along tlie Mississippi, and 
about three miles back. Its streets are wide and regularly 
laid out. Its public buildings, mercantile houses, and 
residences, will compare favorably Avith those of any city 
of the same size and age, and are constructed chiefly' of 
marble, stone, and brick, while its principal hotels, the 
Lindell and Southern, in regard to size and munificence 
can scarcely be excelled in any cit}^ of the Union. The 
educational institutions are numerous, and have attained 
a high degree of excellence. Its manufactures are very 
important and rapidly increasing, while as an inland ship- 
ping point St. Louis stands unrivaled, her steam tonnage 
being greater than that of any other inland city, the 
average number of arrivals during the past year being 
nearly 350 per month. 

Jefferson City, the Capital of the State, lies on the 
Pacific Railroad about 150 miles from St. Louis, and con- 
tains 3,000 inhabitants. 

Pacific, situated 38 miles from St. Louis on the Pacific 
Railroad, where that line is intersected by the Atlantic 
and Pacific Raih'oad, is a thriving town, containing many 
fine mercantile houses, residences, etc. 

Holla., 113 miles southwest from St. Louis, is located 
on the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, and contains about 
3,000 inhabitants, sevei'al large wholesale and commission 
houses, and is a point of considerable business. There 
are many other towns of less importance which we can 
not now enumerate. 

SOUTmVEST inSSOURI. 

We come now to Southwest Missouri, the " Garden of 
the West," a land j^et destined to be celebrated in song 
and story, in whose history are alread}'' interwoven many 
thrilling incidents. 



16 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

From the divisions before mentioned the reader will 
readily understand the term southwest to include that por- 
tion of the State south of the Missouri River, and west 
of the datum line drawn from Jefferson City south to the 
Arkansas border ; a scope of country embracing the rich- 
est soil, the most valuable lead mines, the finest and 
largest streams of piu*est water, and the most salubrious 
climate on the American Continent, and concerning which 
an interest is now being awakened in the Northern and 
Eastern states, never before manifested in regard to any 
particular localit}', California perhaps excepted. The south- 
west has an area of 20,73G square miles, or 13,311,040 
acres of land, four-fifths of which is excellent farming- 
land, and beneath the remainder lies buried inexhaustible 
mineral wealth. 

The topograx)hical features of the country are somewhat 
varied, the western portion being beautifully undulating 
and diversified with prairie and timber. 

Though a vast amount of land in this portion of the 
State was sold by Government as swamp lands, yet it is 
nevertheless a fact that a marsh or swamp can scarcely be 
found in the entire southwest ; it is all sufficiently rolling 
to be well drained, and yet the western portion, of which 
we are now speaking, is not broken or hilly, it is nearl}^ 
equally divided into prairie and timber ; further east there 
is a greater proportion of timber, and in the extreme east- 
ern counties the proportion is still greater, and the coinitry 
more broken ; but even here there are many rich, alluvial 
bottom lands, many small but fertile prairies, and upon 
some of the most elevated portions of the country there 
are extensive plateaus of the most fertile soil. 

THE TIMBER 

Of Southwest Missouri embraces most varieties found in 
other parts of the State, but is principally oak, hickory, 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 17 

and walnut. Upon the southern slope of the Ozark Range, 
however, and in the counties bordering on Arkansas, there 
is a heavy growth of yellow pine of superior quality, which 
is very valuable for lumber, and which is now being manu- 
factured to supply the wants of the northern counties, but 
owing to the terrible ravages of the late rebellion, in the 
destruction of mills and other property, the demand for 
pine lumber far exceeds the supply. This objection, how- 
ever, is being rapidly overcome, and will soon be entirely 
removed, as capitalists are fast improving the rare oppor- 
tunities which this portion of the State affords. 

There are numerous water courses in the eastern portion 
of this district, which are invariably bordered by rich, 
alluvial bottoms, comprising by far the most fertile lands 
of this section, although, as before intimated, a large 
portion of the uplands are exceedingly fertile, and well 
adapted to all the various kinds of grain, fruit, etc., of 
this climate. The estimate of arable land in the southwest 
varies somewhat among different writers the author is of 
the opinion that not less than four-fifths of the entire south- 
west is, or will soon become valuable farming land, and this 
estimate is based upon a personal and familiar acquaint- 
ance with this portion of the State. A few estimates of 
the yield of the various productions may not be out of 
place here, and perchance may interest the reader. Corn 
ranges from 40 to 100 bushels per acre, wheat and rye 
from 15 to 40, oats and barley from 20 to 45, and potatoes 
from 100 to 300 bushels per acre. Cotton, flax, and hemp 
thrive, and tobacco grows to perfection. Indeed, the soil 
seems specially adapted to the culture of this most profit- 
able crop. 

The advantages of Southwest Missouri, as a fruit grow- 
ing region, are unrivaled, and world renowned strangers 
and visitors have often expressed the greatest wonder and 
amazement on beholding the profusion of choice, delicious 



18 MISSOURI AND KAKSAS. 

fruits, many of which grow spontaneously from the earth. 
Apples, peaches, pears, plums, and quinces of extraordi- 
nary size and flavor are cultivated with the greatest possi- 
ble success. There is an almost endless variety of wild 
fruits, which in size and flavor equal the cultivated fruits 
of many other States. Grapes, plums, cherries, lolack- 
berries, gooseberries, strawberries, persimmons, crab 
apples by no means complete the list of these natural 
fruits. Manj' facts exist in regard to the growth and 
yield of these fruits which seem almost fabulous, and to 
the stranger perfectly incredible. For instance, from a 
single vine, near Springfield, Mr. F. Wack gathered in 
1865 10 bushels of grapes, which would make 20 gallons 
of wine, which at $4 per gallon would amount to $80, 
and in Christian county I saw growing upon an area of 
not more than two acres of land, at least 100 bushels of 
large wild grapes ; and in neither of the above instances 
had the vines ever received the slightest care or attention, 
and those interested may readily conclude whether or not 
grape culture, in this region, Avould be attended with profit 
and success. Instances lilce those given are not rare, nor 
are they confined to any particular portion of the south- 
west, for scarcely an acre of timbered land can be found 
destitute of the grape vine, while straAvberries, blackber- 
ries, etc., etc., grow upon the prairies in the richest pro- 
fusion. Nearly every farmer has his orchard of apples, 
peaches, and pears, Avhich rarely ever fail, and, notwith- 
standing the supply of fruit is far greater than the de- 
mand, owing to the fact that this section of the State is 
so remote from market, yet there are many farmers Avho 
realize from S300 to S1,000 per year for fruit alone, to say 
nothing of the endless feast which they themselves enjoy 
in having an abundance of fruit throughout the year. 
Those entering upon unimproved lands, by planting a few 
trees earl}^ will soon have an abundance of fruit, as the 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 19 

trees grow very rapidly. There are several nurseries in 
the southwest from which trees can readily be obtained. 
The principal nurseries arc those of J. Vaughan & Co., 
Springfield, Mo., and R. D. Reynolds, near Buffalo, in 
Dallas county. These nurseries contain as large and 
choice varieties of fruit trees as can be found in the West. 


THE AVATEIt 

Of Southwest Missouri is a subject of special interest and 
importance. The streams of pure, clear, running water 
are innumerable, every county being liberally supplied. 
The principal streams are the Osage, Grand, Sac, White, 
James, Elkhorn, Niangua, Pomme de Terre, and Spring 
Rivers. The Osage enters the State from the Avest in the 
northern part of Bates county, flows in a northeasterly 
course, and discharges its waters into the Missouri River, 
about twelve miles east of Jellerson City. This stream is 
navigable, for light ch-affc boats, to the confluence of the 
Little Osage, and Osage proper, near the western border 
of the State. None of the other streams are navigable, 
and they are all noted less for their size than the purity of 
their waters. They are clear, cold, and rapid in descent, 
and atford man}- excellent mill sites. On Spring River 
alone there are fifty unimproved sites furnishing good 
water power. This really beautiful stream drains the 
finest agricultural portion of the entire west, and is fed by 
some of the finest and boldest springs in the world. This 
country is remarkable for its magnificent fountains of 
crystal water, among the most noted of which are Cedar 
Spring, in Camden count}-, which bursts forth from 
beneath a low clift in the hilly range bordering on the 
Osage River, and rushes down over its rocky bed with a 
suflflcient volume to propel any ordinary machinery. 

The Upper and Lower Big Spring, the former rising in 
Dallas, the latter in Camden county, are tnily nature's 



20 - MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

masterpieces of workmanship, and are a source of pride to 
the country, as well as delight to the strangers. The 
latter spring discharges 2,000 cubic feet of water per 
minute. 

There are many objects of interest and curiosity in this 
highly favored region, not the least of which are the Grand 
Falk on Shoal River, in Newton county. The stream is 
about 200 feet wide, and 18 inches in depth, and falls per- 
pendicularly from a ledge of solid rock 12 feet high, and 
continues to rush madly on over the rocks below. Further 
up the stream there is another fall of eighty feet. There 
are numerous caves in every part of the southwest, many 
of which are objects of peculiar interest to the student of 
nature. There is a cave about two miles north of Ozark, 
in Christian county, which is 100 feet wide at the entrance, 
and 35 feet in height, and extends back a distance of 400 
feet, where the dimensions are reduced to 50 feet in width, 
and 25 feet in height. At this point a fine stream of water, 
which comes rushing out from the unexplored depths 
beyond, falls over a ledge of rocks, and passes out under- 
neath the floor of the cave. The walls present man}' 
strange and interesting pictures, which are supposed to 
have been traced by the hands of a race now extinct. It 
is really a romantic spot, and may justly be termed one of 
the Great Spirit's grand natural concert halls, where the 
music of the invisibles still echoes to the ear of the 
thoughtful. 

Wood's cave, twelve miles southeast of Springfield, is 
another grand and interesting sight. There are a thous- 
and objects of interest to the lover of nature. To such 
there can be no greater pleasure than to ascend one of 
those high mounds which forms a natural observatory, and 
drink in at a single glance the magnificent scenery of the 
prairie, with its herds of cattle quietly grazing, and its 
bounding deer, the beautiful woodlands, the majestic hill. 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 21 

aud the romantic dell, and listen to the music of the waters 
as they ripple over their stony bed. 

No section of country offers a finer or more extended 
field for the sportsman — deer, geese, turkeys, prairie chick- 
e2is, raccoons, quails, opossums, otter, beaver, mink, etc., 
abound in all the more unsettled portions of the south- 
west. 

While on a hunting expedition in 1865, in Jasper county, 
in company witli three other persons, in passing over a 
mound upon the prairie, I came suddenly upon a herd of 
deer, numbering twenty-six ; I succeeded in bringing down 
one of the number, but my companions came up too late to 
get a shot. I saw no less than fifty deer during the day, 
and had I ])een accustomed to the chase could doubtless 
have largely increased my stock of game. Deer may 
often be seen in herds of from six to ten, quietly grazing 
upon the prairie, or bounding along with the speed of the 
wind, pursued by the never tiring hunter. 

The innumerable streams of pure, clear w^ater, are filled 
with the choicest kind of fish, such as trout, bass, eels, etc. 

In speaking of the beauties of nature I will add, that 
were some of the most ardent devotees to its study to visit 
with me some" of the southern counties, and gaze upon 
some of those high precipices, covered with cedar and 
pine, they would discover new beauties in nature's handi- 
work. 

In 186(5 I visited the extreme southwest of Missouri, 
and Northwest Arkansas, and while standing on some of 
those high peaks, where I could sec at a glance all the 
surrounding country, I was reminded of the hills on the 
Evergreen Shore, so sacred to the lovers of music, and my 
soul was refreshed, and I was impelled to express thanks 
to God for the many beautiful works of his hand. During 
the same visit I found in the deep valleys immense quanti- 
ties of wild grapes, called winter grapes, and here too I 



22 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

discovered where our northern birds seek and find their 
homes during the long, cold months of winter. Myriads 
of them were congregated in t^e trees along the valleys ; 
their delightful warblings greeted my ears on every side, 
making the air vocal with their sweet melodies. >Surely, 
thought I, these must be angels' songs, and this earth's 
Paradise. 

THE MINERAL RESOURCES 

Of Southwest Missouri are beyond all estimate, almost 
every county, south of the Missouri River, containing one 
or more kinds of valuable ore. In the eastern counties are 
found silvei; cojyper, lead, iron, zinc, tin, nickel, platina, 
emery, marble, granite, etc. While in the central and 
western counties iron, coal, and lead exist in large de- 
posits. Cojyper is found in several of the central coun- 
ties, but as yet but little has been done toward bringing it 
to the surface, and the same is true of iron; but the lead 
mines of the central and western counties are thought by 
many experienced miners to be the richest in the world. 
Although there is no railroad communication with this 
portion of the State, yet these mines have been worked 
with great success for upwards of tliirtj^ years, and thous- 
ands of tons have been hauled on wagons to the various 
shipping points. There are several furnaces now in active 
operation, and others being constructed. There are more 
tliau 500 localities where lead is found, and about one-half 
of these mines are now being developed. There are many 
positive indications of lead, iron, *and copper on govern- 
ment lands, j-et subject to entry. Coal underlies nearly 
all of the western counties. It is of superior quality, and 
is used in every neighborhood for smithing, and other pur- 
poses. Upon the completion of the Southwest Pacific, 
and other projected railroads, coal, which will then have 
an outlet, will become an object of great importance. 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 28 

According to Professor Swallow's report it covers an area 
in the southwest of 26,000 acres, which, if fully developed, 
would supply the entire west. Coal mines are now being 
worked in Jasper, Barton, Vernon, Dade, Cedar, St. Clair, 
Henry, Bates, Cass, Pettis, Lafayette, and several other 
counties. Oil is found in several places, and indications 
are numerous. Lead mines have been opened in Newton, 
Jasper, Barry, Stone, Christian, Tane}', Webster, Camden, 
and Benton counties, and are yielding large profits. 
There are indications of lead in Green, Lawrence, Dade, 
Dallas, Hickory, Laclede. Wright, Douglas, Ozark, and 
other counties. Granby, in Newton county, is the princi- 
pal mining town, and is growing rapidly. H. Blow & Co., 
of St. Louis, have a large furnace established here, which 
is kept in constant operation. Horton, Moon & Co. from 
one shaft raised 25,000 pounds of lead ore in two weeks, 
with twelve workmen, which is worth upon the ground $28 
per thousand pounds, making a total value of $70,000 in 
two weeks ; and in Christian count}', in the fall of 1866, 
two men, with the aid of an old axe and a hand-spike, 
dug 1,100 pounds in one daj'. This mine had l^een but 
recently discovered, and similar ones are being found 
almost every week. 

Professor Swallow reports iron in two localities in 
Laclede county, to-wit : Township 36, range 1 and 4, and 
one in Webster county, township 19, range 18 ; in Green 
county there are sixteen localities, townships 27, 28, 29, 
dnd 30, range 20, 23, and 24 ; in Lawrence count}- two 
localities, township 28, range 26 and 27 ; in Stone county 
three localities, townships 25 and 26, range 23 and 25. 

He reports copper in Green coimty in two localities, in 
townships 29 and 30, range 24 ; in La-nTcnce county one 
localitj', to^vnship 29, range 25 ; in Dade county one local- 
ity, to^vnship 30, range 25 ; in Taney county one locality, 
township 26, range 19. 



24 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

He reports lead in Laclede county in township 26, range 
16 ; Webster county, township 27, range 19 ; Christian 
county ten localities, township 26, range 19; Taney 
county, township 26, range 19 ; in Green county two 
localities, townships 27 and 29, range 21 ; Lawrence 
county two localities, townships 25 and 26, range 25 ; 
Barry county, township 25, range 25 ; in Newton county 
twenty-one localities, townships 25, 26, 27, 28, and 29, 
range 30, 31, and 32 ; in Jasper county fifteen localities, 
townships 27, 28, and 29, range 31, 32,33; in Wright 
county five localities, township 29, range 12. The aljove 
mentioned are the most important mines that have been 
discovered, although many more less valuable might be 
enumerated. 

THK COMMKRCIAL KACILITIKS 

Of Southwest Missouri are as yet limited, there being at 
present no railroad communication with this portion of 
the State, with the exception of the Union Pacific Rail- 
road. There are, however, several railroads in process of 
construction, and others contemplated. The Atlantic and 
Pacific Railroad, of which the. present western terminus is 
Little Piney, is being rapidly pushed forward, and is al- 
ready completed to Little Piney River, twelve miles west 
of Rolla, and will be cojistructed as far as Springfield 
within a year, and to the western border of the State 
within two years. The Tebo and Neosho Railroad, which 
is contemplated to run from Sedalia on the Union Pacific 
Railroad, through Fort Scott, in Kansas, on to the rich 
and fertile valley of the Neosho River. The counties 
along this line have voted bonds liberally to assist in car- 
rying forward the enterprise, and there is now every pros- 
pect that the railroad company will speedily commence 
breaking ground. The Union Pacific Railroad, which 
traverses the State from St Louis, in the east, to Kansas 
City, in the west, affords convenient shipping points for 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 25 

the northern portion of Southwest Missouri. Sedalia on 
the Union Pacific, and Rolla on the Atlantic and Pacific, 
are the principal shipping points to this portion of the 
State. 'There are excellent wagon roads to and from 
these, and all other points. 

CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS 

Under the new order of things seem to rise as if by magic, 
and now every town and village has its churches and 
school houses. The old and defective code of school laws, 
which was in force prior to the late rebellion, have been 
supplanted by a new and more perfect system. The school 
law of Missouri is now very similar to that of Ohio, and 
under its wholesome influence and eflfects, the educational 
interests of Southwest Missouri are rapidly assuming 
importance and vitality. The people of Southwest Mis- 
souri are kind and generous, and always ready to extend 
their hospitalities to strangers who may visit or come to 
reside among them. 

THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS 

Are Sjmncifield, the seat of Green county, and the center 
of trade in the southwest, which has a population of 3,000 
(exclusive of the colored), several churches, academies, 
schools, etc. 

Warsaw and Osceola on the Osage, Bolivar, Mt. Ver- 
non, Carthage, and Granhy, farther south and west. There 
are many other little towns which are being rapidly built 
and fast coming into note. 

GOVERNMENT LAND. 

From the otticers of the land office, located at Spring- 
field, I learn that there are about 2,000,000 acres of 
government land j'et subject to entry in that district, 
which embraces twelve counties. Below is given a table 



26 anssouRi and Kansas. 

showing the number of acres of government land subject 
to entry at $1 25 per acre, or under Homestead Bill at 
$1G per 160 acres. 

Camden county has 250,000 acres. 

Barry " " 300,000 " 

Benton " " 50,000 

Cedar " " 20,000 " 

Christian " " 50,000 «' 

Dade " " 20,000 " 

Dallas " " 100,000 " 

Douglas " " 300,000 " 

Green •' " 20,000 " 

Hickory " " 50,000 " " 

Laclede " " 100,000 •' 

Lawrence " " 40,000 " 

McDonald " " 200,000 

Newton " " 50,000 

Ozark " " 300,000 

Polk * " " 25,000 

Stone " '• 200,000 " 

Taney " " 300,000 " 

Texas " " 100,000 '* 

Wright " " 200,000 " 

Webster " " 100,000 

Some of the above lands are within the railroad limits, 
and would rate at $2 50 per acre. They embrace many 
acres of choice farming lands, rich mineral lands, and valu- 
able timber lands, some of them as good as the State 
affords. 



TWENTY-SIX COUNTIES OF SOUTHWEST MISSOURI. 



BARRY COUNTY 

Is situated in the southwest corner of the State, and is 
bounded on the soutli by the Arkansas line. The land is 
generally undulating, and the valleys are fertile, Avith a 
good diAision of prairie and timber. There are few coun- 
ties in the State where greater inducements are offered 
to those wishing to engage in farming, mining, manufac- 
turing, or stock raising. All kinds of grain, fruit and 
vegetables return an abundant j'ield. Building material, 
both stone and wood, is plenty. The north part of the 
county is rich in lead ore, and mines have been success- 
fully operated. This county has 300,000 acres of govern- 
ment lands subject to entry. Extensive pineries are found 
in the south part. Cassville is the county seat. 



BARTON COUNTY 

Embraces an area of 600 square miles, and is bounded 
, on the west by the Kansas line. The land is principally 
prairie, remarkably fertile, high, level, and well drained. 
Extensive gi'oves of timber are scattered over the countj^, 
consisting of linn, hickory, oak, locust, walnut, sycamore, 
cedar, cottonwood, and elm, of which there is sufficient 
for all practical purposes. The greater part of the county 
is underlaid by the best coal, and many beds are being 
worked with success. Limestone and sandstone, clays 
and sands, for building, are very abundant. Since the 
close of the war the county has been rapidly filling up, is 



28 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

in a prosperous condition, and unquestionably presents 
great inducements to farmers and stock growers. Lamar 
is the county seat. 



BATES COUNTY 

Is situated in the northwestern part of Southwest Mis- 
souri, on tlie Kansas line, comprising 537,600 acres of 
very rich land. The surface is undulating, with about an 
equal division of prairie and timber. The soil is excel- 
lent for all agricultural purposes. Grain and grass of all 
kinds flourish. Coal is found in abundance, and indica- 
tions of petroleum are numerous. AYater is plenty, fully 
furnished by the Osage and south fork of Grand River, 
which, with their branches, run through the county. But- 
ler, the county seat, is the principal town of the county, 
and is o-rowins; finelv. 



BENTON COUNTY 

Is located near the centre of the State, and comprises 
453,800 acres of land. The surface of the county is undu- 
lating and hilly — about one-half prairie, the remainder 
fine timber. The soil in the bottoms of the Osage and 
Pomme de Terre rivers and their tributaries is remarkably 
fertile, and will yield to the acre 100 bushels of corn, 30 
bushels of wheat, 35 bushels of oats, while for the produc- 
tion of hemp and tobacco it is equally good. The uplands 
produce wheat, oats, barley, &c., plentifully, and are espe- 
cially adapted to fruits and grasses. Good springs are 
numerous, and supply an abundance of water. The timber 
consists chiefly of oak, hickory, walnut, elm, etc. Stone 
for building 2)urposes is plenty. Iron, copper and lead 
are found in various parts of the county. A. II. Melton, 
of Warsaw, is now extensively engaged in developing the 
mineral resources of Benton count}^, and is meeting with 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 2'.) 

success. Warsaw, the county seat, is situated on the 
Osage river, and is a beautiful town, with a considerable 
number of wholesale houses, good public buildings, fine 
dwellings, and an enterprising class of citizens. Steam- 
boats ply between this place and 8t. Louis. 



CAMDEN COUNTY 

Is situated about thirty miles southwest of Jetferson City. 
The surfiice of the country is rolling, and in some places 
hilly. Tlie uplands are well adapted for fruit growing 
and stock raising, while the bottoms are very fertile. The 
country is well Avatered by the Osage and Big and Little 
Niangua rivers, with their tributaries. Timber is abun- 
dant. Indications of mineral are promising. There are 
about 300,000 acres of government land yet subject to 
entry in this county. Linn Creek is the county seat, and 
is a flourishing town, situated on the Osage. 



CEDAR COUNTY 

Has an area of about 450 square miles, and is separated 
from the Kansas line by ^'ernon county. The western 
part of the county is principally level and fertile prairie. 
The eastern half is more rolling, with an abundance of 
good timber. The soil is well adapted to all agricultural 
purposes, and especially to stock raising and fruit grow- 
ing. The whole countr}- is well watered b}^ never tailing- 
streams. The Sac river traverses it, and, with its tribu- 
tary creeks, furnishes a large amount of water power, 
which is yet mostly- unimproved. There is an abundance of 
stone coal, which is, however, j-et waiting to be developed, 
and is at "present only used for neighborhood purposes. 
The prospect for oil in the northern part is tine. Stockton, 
the county seat, is rapidly recovering from the etlects of 
the late war, and presents an inviting appearance. 
3 



30 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

CHRISTIAN COUNTY. 

BY DR. J. P. OAVEN. 

This county contains 571 square miles, and is separated 
from the Arkansas line b}' Stone and Taney counties. 
The streams that traverse its territory are Terrell, James, 
Wilson, Finle}^, Bull, Stewart, Swan, and their tributa- 
ries, and there is hardly a mile along them that does not 
present a good site for mills or machinery. While the 
bottoms are the finest of agricultural lands, the blufls of 
limestone and flint are w arranty against anj^ overflowing. 
There are now on Finley creek five mills, and on James 
one, the latter run by steam. On Bull creek there is one 
mill and distiller}'. On Swan creek sites for steam work 
are plenty, and water abundant. In every section of the 
county are pure and lasting springs, and where springs are 
scarce water may be easil}^ obtained b}^ digging. 

Between James and Finley is a prairie country, which 
produces the finest grain of any section of Southwest Mis- 
souri, with timber in abundance. There are now about 
45,600 acres of the land of the county in cultivation, and 
produce to the acre, on an average, about as follows : 
corn, 40 bushels ; oats, 20 bushels ; wheat and lye, 15 
bushels ; barley, 30 bushels. The grasses grow as well 
here as in the choicest parts of Kentuck3\ Apples, 
peaches, pears, plums, quinces, cherries, and other fruits 
grow as well as in any portion of the State. Wild grapes, 
whortleberries, and gooseberries are found in profusion. 
To the tobacco grower, no countiy offers more induce- 
ments than this county. The land is first class, and is 
being rapidly filled up l\y a hardy, industrious class of 
settlers. On the south side of Bull creek is a pineiy, con- 
sisting of 3,500 acres, in which there is one steam mill 
engaged in sawing lumber. 

On the breaks of Bull and Swan creeks are fine indica- 
tions of lead. In 1861 there was a large mining business 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 81 

carried ou there, which was stopped by the late war. Now 
two large smelters are being built, and a large number of 
persons are making arrangements to open these deposits 
again. The ore is the finest quality of east-and-west min- 
eral, and is found at all depths. Many of the shafts pay 
from the surface. These mines and indications cover an 
area of about eighteen by twelve miles. There are three 
villages in the county : Ozark, the county seat, Kenton, 
and Swanville. The county, being on the Ozark range, 
has one of the healthiest locations of Southwest Missouri. 



15Y HON. JAMES O. JONES. 

Christian count}' was first settled in 1840, and organized 
in 1860, having then a population of about 4,200. The 
first county court was composed of Judges Hall, Cornag, 
and Morley, and was held at Ozark. 

The whole county is well supplied with springs and 
streams of pure and soft water. The timber is chiefly 
oak, interspersed with maple, walnut, ash, linn, sycamore, 
and elm, with an undergrowth of blackberry, sumac, and 
hazel. About one-third of the whole surface is adapted 
to cultivation, the balance to grazing. There are now in 
good running order four grist mills, two saw mills, one 
cotton gin, two carding machines — all by water, and power 
to spare. But its chief source of prospective wealth is 
lead. Before the war there was smelted at the Bray Fur- 
nace not less than 600,000 pounds of ore. The furnace 
and diggings, until within a short time, stood just where 
the war left them, being the property- of absent rebels. 
The Bray Furnace is now in loj-al hands, who have com- 
menced operations. Another is being built on the fai-m 
owned by Mr. Burkhart. Fine samples of the mineral are 
found and dug all over that part of the count}', beginning 



32 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

in tOAvnship 24, range 20, and extending eighteen miles to 
the county line. On section 16, township 24, range 20, a 
recent discovery was made which yielded to each hand 
700 pounds of choice mineral per da}'. Bra3''s diggings 
produced, before the Avar, 000,000 pounds of mineral ; 
Roberts', 3,000 pounds; Buikhart's, 12,000 pounds; 
McFadden's, 20,000 pounds; Vratkins', 30,000 pounds; 
Haj-es', 1,500 pounds. On my own land, section G, town- 
ship 26, range 18, are two undeveloped discoveries ; but 
with such the county abounds. Here is a great field for 
experienced miners. The inhabitants are communicative 
and hospitable. 

This county has 100,000 acres of government lands 
subject to entry at $1.25. 



DADE COUNTY 

Embraces an area of 432 square miles, and is separated 
from the western line of the State b}' Barton, The face 
of the country is undulating, and in some places bro- 
ken. The western part is generally prairie, the eastern 
being more thickly timbered. The soil is fertile, and well 
adapted to the cultivation of all kinds of grain and fruits. 
The Sac river and its tributaries water the whole county, 
and furnish good water power for machinery, much of 
Avhich is yet unimproved. 

Copper, iron, and coal have been found in various parts 
of the county, and there are frequent indications of coal 
oil. Timber in abundance is found along the valleys, 
and is sufficient for all practical purposes. Grass grows 
in great profusion, and affords an abundant pasture for 
stock. Greenfield, the county seat, is pleasantly located, 
is rapidly improving, and supports a truly interesting and 
loyal paper, The Greenfield Vidette. 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 33 

DALLAS COUNTY. 

I5Y A. ii. MADDEUX, COUNTY CLEKK. 

About one-fourlli of this couuty is beautiful prairie, the 
remainder timbered, with prairie vallej's interspersed. The 
Big Niangua river runs nearly north through the entire 
length of the county, with a number of tributaries. The 
country for three or four miles each side of the Niangua 
river is broken, but very well timbered. The river is 
about forty or fifty j^ards wide, with a swift current, and 
has an abundance of water at all seasons of the year to 
drive any ordinary machinery. 

There is a large quantity of prairie valley and hickory 
barren lands, affording a large quantity of arable land, 
adapted to the raising of corn, wheat, vye, oats, timothy, 
and herd grass ; and as fine fruit lands as any in the 
world, especially for apples, p6aches, pears, plums, and the 
grape, to the cultivation of which considerable attention 
is being paid. I believe Southwest ISIissouri is the best 
portion of the State, and Dallas covmty is the best in the 
Southwest for this purpose. 

Limestone and sandstone for building purposes abound. 
Cannel coal has been found. Lead is found in the valleys 
in various portions of the county, and is picked up on the 
borders of the streams. There arc several corn mills, and 
one planing mill, located on Big Spring, one of the largest 
springs in the State. There are 49,923 acres of improved 
land in the count}", and 89,317 of unimproved. The popu- 
lation is about 5,000. Stock raising is carried on to a 
considerable extent. To conclude, Dallas county has bet- 
ter water power, and more of it, than any couutj'^ in the 
State ; is the best fruit, grain and grass gi'owiug county ; 
a fine stock raising covmt}' ; good corn and wheat lands ; 
a fine climate, pure water, and a most healthy locality. 



34 mSSOURI AND KANSAS. 

With our resources almost entirely undeveloped, this 
county offers rnre inducements to the industrious and 
thrifty emigrant, as well as the merchant or manufacturer. 
There are 100,000 acres of goverraent land in this county 
subject to entry, at $1.25 per acre. 



DOUGLAS COUNTY 

Is separated from the Arkansas line by Ozark county, and 
contains 540 square miles. The face of the country is roll- 
ing^and hill}'. The soil in the valleys is good for grains, 
fruits, etc., while the uplands are adapted to grazing. 
The great value of this county is in its extensive pineries, 
which are now furnishing lumber to the adjoining counties. 
It is well watered bj- the two eastern forks of AYhite river, 
which afford numerous locations for mills and machinery. 
There are 300,000 acres of the government land as j^et un- 
entered. Vera Cruz, the countj' seat, is situated on White 
river, near the center of the county. 



GREENE COUNTY. 

nY HON. S. H. BOYD. 

Greene county embraces about 688 square miles, mostly 
situated on the rolling plateaus of the mythical Ozark 
range, 1,500 feet above the level of the sea, and 797 feet 
higher than the city of St. Louis, from which it is distant 
about two hundred and forty miles. A central line from 
east to west, along the surve^-ed line of the Atlantic and 
Pacific Eailroad, will divide the waters of the Missouri 
from the Mississippi. At this day it would be approxi- 
mately true to divide the ceunty — two-thirds woodland, 
and one-third prairie ; one-half of the woodland being 
broken, and bearing much small, irregular shaped stone. 
This land gi'ows fine wild grasses, and in many places the 



MISSOUEI AND KANSAS. 3o 

economical fanner, by sowing blue grass and herd grass, 
makes it subservient to horses, mules and cattle for pas- 
turage, and it is the best of sheep pasturage. The remain- 
der of the woodland is known by the name of "hickory 
barrens" and "oak flats," and bottom lands lying along 
the various streams which water the count}-. The barrens 
and flats bear the finest yield and quality of chewing to- 
bacco. The bottoms yield a great abundance of grain, 
cereals, grasses, potatoes, and tobacco, not inferior in 
quantity and quality to any lands in the same latitude. 

The other one-third of the count}" is prairie, rich in soil 
and production to the highest degi-ee. James Fork of 
White river meanders through the southern portion of the 
county, and furnishes numerous sites for all kinds of ma- 
chinery. The count}' is wclf supplied with cool springs, 
which are but little warmer than ice water. About one- 
fifth of the farms are supplied with spring water, offering 
invaluable conveniences, especially to the stock raiser. 
Some very large springs afford a column powerful enough 
for mills of the mercantile class. 

The water power facilities of the county, which can be 
applied readily to machiner\', is second only in importance 
to the vast agricultural resources of the county. The num- 
ber of eligible water power sites is set down as thirty- 
three in the county, not embracing the large springs, 
which are little short of tAventy-five. 

The woodlands comprise the oak, walnut, wild cherry, 
hickorv, mulberry, redbud, linn, or basswood, hackberr}-, 
maple, and ash ; and is quite sufficient for all the wants 
of the surrounding country. The underbrush consists of 
the hawthorn, hazel, sumac, pawpaw, and dogwood, a- 
growtli which is evidence of the finest qualitv of soil. 
"Wild plums, crab apples, gooseberries, grapes, strawber- 
ries, blackberries, dewberries, haws, and raspberries, grow- 
profusely throughout the woodland and skirts of the prairie. 



36 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

About 30,000 acres of laud are yet vacant, and subject 
to entry at the land office in Springfield. About 120,000 
acres belong to the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad Com- 
pany, the greater part of which is the finest land in the 
county. It was drawn from the market about eighteen 
years ago. Now the Company, under the wise and far- 
seeing guidance of Gen. John C. Fremont, President, and 
Levi Parsons, Vice President, with J. P. Robinson, Chief 
Engineer, and Arrowsmith and Gen. Salomon, as Assist- 
ant Engineers, and an experienced Board of Directors, 
will soon place these lands in the market. Preparatory 
to this. Gen. Albert, Land Superintendent of the Com- 
pany, has already selected and appointed Messrs. Har- 
wood, Lisenbey & Co., at Springfield, to classify' and rate 
the lands of the Company. The bonds of the road, novr 
in the market at eighty cents, will be taken at par for 
these lands. Li fifteen months these lands will be in the 
market. It is to be b.oped that the wisdom of the Com- 
panj^ will make sale to actual residents and practical 
farmers. One of the Directors, an old citizen of Greene 
count}', is of the opinion that the Companv will sell its 
lands in this county to actual settlers, and secure them a 
patent from the State by executing the obligation of the 
Company to the purchaser upon the final paj^ment of the 
purchase mone3\ Messrs. Harwood, Lisenbey & Co.'s 
records of sales of lands show that prices paid for unim- 
proved land range from $5 to $30 per acre, and for im- 
proved from $S to S40 per acre, and that about $250,000 
have been given for lands in the past six months. Fine 
limestone and cotton rock, for building, are found in ex- 
tensive quarries. Bituminous coal has been discovered 
about nine miles from Springfield. Ochre is found in the 
eastern part of the county, near the James Fork, and with 
it silver is supposed to be. 

There are about 100,000 acres of land in cultivation in 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. Ot 

the count}', twenty-two Houring mills, eleven saw mills, 
and a population of 15,000, with a greater increase than 
over before experienced. Settlers from all the Northern 
and Eastern States are rapidly filling up the county. 
Wheat, corn, oats, r3'e, barlej^, tobacco, buckwheat, pota- 
toes, tlax, hay, blue grass, and clover, are the staple pro- 
ductions of the county. The average yield of wheat for 
ten years is twenty bushels ; thirty-five bushels have fre- 
quently been gathered from one acre. The crop has never 
been lost in the remembrance of the oldest citizen. 18GG 
will produce not less than 200,000 bushels. Corn aver- 
ages fort}' bushels per acre ; oats, forty bushels ; barley 
and buckwheat, twenty-five bushels ; potatoes, from fifty 
to four hundred bushels. Hemp grows from ten to fifteen 
feet high. The best chewing tobacco in the world is 
grown in Greene county; 1,200 pounds per acre of fine 
tobacco is an average crop, and 150,000 pounds will be 
raised this year. There is no valid reason or objection to 
this county as a stock-raising county. Old, life-long flock 
masters say that Southwest Missouri is superior to any 
part of the continent for sheep raising. Already, since 
Missouri is free, large flocks are being introduced into the 
county. There has been no feeding of stock of any kind 
yet (Dec. lith). Flocks are grazing and keep filled on 
the wild grasses. There will be no feeding of sheep till 
snow fails. There is no disease or sickness among sheep. 
Timothy grass averages two tons per acre. Clover and 
blue grass are not cared for to a great extent. Stock of 
all kinds is very much needed, there being but few brood 
mares, or any cattle, except sheep. This is the country 
for raising fine horses and mules. Immigrants would do 
well to bring stock horses and cattle. It is so well known 
to the country that this latitude surpasses all others for 
fruits, that it need only be remarked that there are many 
very fine nurseries in the county, and "every farmer has 



38 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

more or less orchard, which has never been known to fail. 
Apples are kept any month in the year. Several vine- 
yards are in course of construction, and bid fair to be a 
success. Springfield, the county town, has now a popula. 
tion of about 3,000. Several academies and public schools, 
and all denominations of religionists have good, large, and 
commodious church buildings. There are forty or fift}^ 
business houses, doing a business of half a million aunu. 
ally. Brick manufacturers and mechanics will, without 
fail, have a fine field next year for their professions. The 
Atlantic and Pacific Kailroad survey runs now to the 
northern limits of the city. In the county there are fift}^- 
one schools, with an aggregate of 2,700 scholars. There 
are two well-conducted, orderly colored schools, which are 
largely attended by old and young, and are encouraged 
and appreciated by all of our citizens. There are twenty 
post oflices in the county ; daily, tri-weekly and weekly 
mails, to all points. The land office is re-established here 
and doing a handsome business. The climate is mild and 
gentle. The average depth of water iu the month of Jan- 
uary is less than two inches. There are few snows ; no 
heavy winds or storms have been experienced for a num- 
ber of years. Perfect peace and quiet throughout the 
county. The people of Southwest Missouri are now and 
ever will be a loj^al, radical, and progressive element iu 
Missouri politics. 



HENEY COUNTY 

Is separated from the Kansas line b}^ Benton and Cass 
counties, and has an area of 720 square miles. The face 
of the country is rolling, and is principall}^ prairie, but 
with sufficient timber along the numerous streams. The 
soil is very productive. Tebo and Grand rivers, with their 
tribu.taries, afibrd an abundance of water. Stone for build- 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. "9 

ing purposes is plenty. Coal is found in all parts of the 
county. Clinton, the county seat, is pleasantly located 
and prosperous. The Fort Scott and Sedalia Railroad is 
located through the county. To all enterprising men, 
Henry county offers comfortable and pleasant homes, and 
wealth and prosperity. In politics the people are intensely 
loyal. 



HICKORY COUNTY 

Has an area of 284 square miles, and is situated in the 
northeast of Avhat is general^ called Southwest Missouri. 
The country is principally undulating and hillj', but the soil 
is fertile. About one-third of the county is prairie, the 
remainder timbered. All kinds of grain and fruit do well 
in the prairies and bottoms. Fine indications of lead, iro», 
and oil abound. The county is well watered bj" the Nian- 
gua and Pomme de Terre, which run thi-ough it from south 
to north, affording an abundance of water power. A small 
amount of government land is yet unentered. Hermitage 
is the county seat. 



JASPER COUNTY. 

BY HON. JOHN M. RICHARDSON. 

This county lies on the western boundary of the State, 
and forty miles north of the Arkansas line. It is twenty- 
one miles north and south, and thirt^'-two east and west, 
containing 672 square miles, and 450,560 acres of land. 
The county may be considered with regard to its agricul- 
tural capacity^ its mineral ivealth, and icater j^oicer. Its 
topography is moderately undulating, sufficiently so to 
drain the surface well. There are no high, precipitous 
hills or flat morasses. At the commencement of the rebel- 
lion, this county was rich in live stock, such as horses, 
mules, cattle, hogs, and sheep. Its population consisted 



40 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

of about one thousand families- — its people were prosperous 
and happy. The civil war desolated the county. At the 
end of the rebellion, there remained only about forty fami- 
lies. Houses and farms were mostly burned. Carthage, 
the county seat, was entirely destroyed. Peace being- 
restored, the county is fast filling up with an active, ener- 
getic, and moral population. During the war, a hundred 
thousand Northern soldiers marched over its beautiful 
prairies ; they were pleased with its fine soil and mild cli- 
mate, and a great many of these men arc now purchasing 
homes for themselves and families in this county. At this 
time seventy families are living in tents around Carthage 
Avaiting for lumber with which to build houses. The lead 
field of the Southwest crops out in the southwest part of 
this county. It is here that the indications are strongest 
of immense deposits of lead in Southwest Missouri. The 
mine belonging to the heirs of James' estate, on Centre 
Creek, is considered b^- good judges to be the best lead 
mine in the State. It, however, has not yet been fully 
tested by mining operations. Geology justifies the belief 
that the southwest part of the county is rich in mineral 
wealth. The soil of the county is of three qualities — the 
black, coarse-grained limestone land ; the red or mulatto 
limestone land, and the black, coarse-grained land in the 
sandy formation, overlying a portion of the great Missouri 
coal field in the northwest part of the county. The south 
half of the county is the black, coarse-grained limestone 
soil. It is very rich, and produces on an average from 40 
to 55 bushels of corn to the acre ; from 20 to 30 bushels 
of wheat and rye, and 30 bushels of oats. The soil of the 
sandy formation is about the same as to strength as the 
black, coarse-grained limestone. The north and northeast 
part of the county is of the red or mulatto limestone. This 
is the best wheat land in the United States — it has pro- 
duced, with good cultivation, 40 bushels of wheat to the 



MISSOUKI AND KANSAS. 41 

acre, weighing QG pounds to the measured bushel. The 
soil of the count}' is well adapted to the raising of timothy 
and Hungarian grass for hay, and blue grass for summer 
and winter pasture. The blue grass grows about three 
feet long, forming a thick mat on the ground, and, if not 
pastured in summer, makes a splendid winter pasture. The 
county produces the best of fruit, such as apples, peaches, 
quinces, apricots, pears, plums, etc., etc. The apple is a 
sure and profitable crop. There are in the county several 
apple orchards that are not surpassed b}' any in the United 
States for yield and quality. The quality and flavor of 
the apples and peaches produced in this county last season 
were superior to an}' the writer could laid in the New York, 
Philadelphia, or "Washington City markets. In addition 
to the fruits mentioned, the smaller varieties are cultivated 
with great profit, such as the currant, gooseberry, rasp- 
berr}', and blackberr}^ The wild strawberry, of remarkable 
size and fine fiavor, grows in profusion, but has not been 
cultivated. There is a small belt of land south of Spring 
river, upon which the native grape grows nearly as large 
as the cultivated grape at Hermann or Cincinnati, and the 
flavor of which is as good as the cultivated grape of either 
of those places. The soil of this county is from two to 
five feet thick, having a sub-soil of clay, intermixed widi 
gravel. In the north and northeast part of the county, 
there is, several feet under the surface, a bed of claj', which, 
if thrown up and exposed to the frosts of a couple of win- 
ters, makes a first-rate fertilizer for the soil. It is an 
excellent manure. The county is well watered, having a 
great manj' springs of pure, fresh, limestone water. There 
are scA'cral large streams ; Spring river and Turkc}' creek 
run through the count}' from east to west. There are also 
the Big and Little North Forks, Dry Fork, AVhite Oak, 
Jones', Centre, Turkey, and Short creeks. All these 
streams furnish fine water power. Spring river, at Car- 



42 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

thage, is 90 feet wide, and 30 inches deep, running with a 
A'elocity of a foot to the second. There is a good water 
power for every two miles of this river. Centre creek, 
though not so large, is a fine stream for machinery. 

Ten years will make this the richest county in agricul- 
tural and manufacturing wealth. It has the soil upon 
which to grow the cotton, hemp, and wool, and the water 
power to manufacture it into fabrics. The streams are 
skirted with good timber, such as oak, walnut, hickory 
and cherry. The northwest portion of the county is un- 
derlaid by a part of the great Missouri coal field, which 
crosses the county from northeast to southwest ; under that 
part of the county are three beds or layers of the finest 
cannel coal in the West. Along each of the streams are 
bottoms of rich, alluvial soil, varying in width from one- 
fourth to three-fourths of a mile. The bottoms of Spring 
river and Centre creek are from one-half to three-quarters 
of a mile wide ; they are very rich, and, with good culti- 
vation, produce one hundred bushels of cornto the acre. 
The county is well Avatered, the soil is rich, the climate 
mild, and the countiy health3\ There is timber sufficient 
to answer all necessary purposes. Previous to the rebel- 
lion a farmer, without slaves or hired help, calculated to 
support his family off his little farm, and sell every fall 
five head of mules or horses for from $600 to $800. That 
was a good income on the labor of one man, particularly 
as he did not labor more than fom* hours a day on an ave- 
rage the year round. The county at this time has four 
good steam saw mills, and five grist and flouring mills. 
The towns are Carthage, Medoc, Preston, Avilla, Fidelity, 
and Sarcoxie — all good business points, surrounded by 
good neighborhoods. Land in this county has continued 
to rise gradually from the close of the rebellion ; it rates 
at this time from $3 to $25 per acre. Unimproved prairie 
lands sell at fi'om $3 to $10 per acre, owing to the loca- 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 43 

tiou. Jasper is a desirable countj^ for residence ; it is 
recommended by its soil, water, health, and mildness of 
climate. It is tlie climate which so materially aids the 
farmer. There is not a dram shop iii the county ; the 
people prefer schools ; the public school fund is about one 
hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. 



LACLEDE COUNTY 

Has an area of 476 square miles, was formed from a part 
of Pulaski county in 1849, and named after the honored 
founder of St. Louis. The face of the country is gene- 
rally rolling and hilly, with occasional level prairies. The 
soil is productive, and all kinds of grain and fruit gi'ow to 
perfection. The county is well watered by fine springs, 
and the Gasconade river runs through a large portion of 
it. Good building stone is plenty. Iron, lead, and cop- 
per have been found, and will prove of great value to the 
county at no distant day. The Atlantic and Pacific Rail- 
road will traverse it, and is now being rapidl}' built. The 
population is about 5,000. Lebanon, the county town, is 
in a prosperous condition, and growing rapidly. There 
are a number of wholesale and retail stores, and a flour- 
ishing academy-. The Lebanon Advocate, a weekl}' news- 
paper, worthily represents a loyal and atti'active county. 
There are 100,000 acres of government land yet subject 
to entry in this county. 



LAAYRENCE COUNTY 

Is separated from Arkansas by Barry county, and from 
Kansas by Jasper and Newton, and contains 404,000 acres. 
The face of the country is principall}^ rolfing, in some 
places hill}', but well diversified with prairie and timber. 
The soil and climate is very favorable to mixed farming, 



44 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

all kinds of gTain, fruit, and stock. The valleys are par- 
ticularly productive, while the high prairies are unsur- 
passed for grazing. It is bountifully supplied with water 
by streams which are fed by large and clear springs. In 
several instances a single spring furnishes available water 
power. The best of timber is plenty, Avith a heavy under- 
growtli of hazel and sumac. Wild fruits of all kinds grow 
in profusion. Limestone and sandstone of the best quality 
is abundant. No coal. Iron and lead in small quantities. 
The location is very healthy, Mt. Vernon, the county seat, 
has a population of about 1,000, was but little injured dur- 
ing the war, and presents an attractive appearance. 



Mcdonald county 

Is located in the southwest corner of the State ; is bounded 
on the south by the Arkansas line, and on the west by the 
Indian Territory. Its area is 480 square miles. The face 
of the country is generally rolling and hilly. The valleys 
are very productive, and yield abundantly to the agricul- 
turalist, while the uplands are well timbered, and are good 
for pastures. The county is well watered by the Ellc 
riA'er, and Big and Little Sugar, Indian and Buffalo 
creeks, and their tributaries. Several extensive pineries 
contribute to the wealth of the county. The Atlantic and 
Pacific Railroad has a large amount of good land here. 
Pineville, the county seat, is situated at the head of Elk 
river. The population of the county is about 2,000. 
There are 100,000 acres of government land subject to 
entry in this countv. 



NEWTON COUNTY 

Joins the Indian Territory on the west, is separated from 
Arkansas by McDonald count}-, and contains 650 square 
miles. The surface is generally undulating, and in some 
places hilly, with nearly an equal quantity of prairie and 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 45 

timber. The soil is generally fertile, and all kinds of 
grain and fruits are produced abundantly-. It is wel 
watered b}^ Shoal, Hickory, Cedar, and Buffalo creeks, 
and their tributaries. On Shoal creek is a great deal of 
fine water power yet unimproved. Stone for building 
purposes is plenty. The chief source of wealth of New- 
ton count}- lies in its mineral deposits. Copper and silver 
are found in considerable quantities. Of lead, there is 
great abundance. Moseley's diggings, ten miles north- 
west from Neosho, the county seat, are very rich with 
lead and silver. But Granby, in the eastern part of the 
count}-, is the principal mineral point of Southwest Mis- 
souri. Extensive mines, employing 300 miners, are being 
successfully worked. Granby is a flourishing town, has 
the finest hotel west of St. Louis, "The Blow House ; " 
and the Granby Mining Company have erected, and now 
opened, the largest mercantile establishment in this part of 
the State. Newtonia, five miles cast of Granby, is a neat 
and thriving town. This county is rapidly filling up with 
ap intelligent and industrious people. There are 50,000 
acres of government land yet unentered in this county. 



OZATIK COUNTY 

Is situated in the southeastern part of the State, on the 
Arkansas line. It is A'cry well watered, and its streams 
afford excellent water power. The surface of the country 
is very much broken, and in some portions mountainous. 
Most of the county is covered with fine timber, chiefly oak, 
hickory, and yellow pine. Pine timber is its principal 
commodity. Farming is carried on to limited extent, but 
pays well. Its mineral resources are undoubtedly great. 
There are tweh-e mills in the county. Game of all kinds 
is abundant. Gainesville is the county seat. There are 
300,000 acres of government land in this county, subject 
to entry at $1.25 per acre. 



46 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

POLK COUNTY 

Has an area of 576 square miles. The surface is gener- 
ally undulating, in some places hilly, with about an equal 
quantity of prairie and timber. The Pommc de Terre 
river and its tributary creeks drain the eastern part of 
the count}"-, while the Sac and its tributaries water the 
western. Good springs are numerous and clear. The 
uplands consist chie% of limestone soil, which produces 
fruits, wheat, rye, oats, barley, etc., alnmdantl}', while the 
yallej's of the streams consist of alluvial soil of remarka])le 
fertility. Timber, of all the varieties found in Southwest 
Missouri, is plenty. Limestone, sandstone, and cotton 
rock, for building purposes, is found in large quantities. 
Lead has been found in the northeastern part of the 
county. Bolivar, the count}' seat, has a population of 
700 ; is a thriving town, and sujiports a weekly news- 
paper. The Bolivar Sentinel. Population of the county, 
G,500. They claim to have 44 school houses and 20 
churches in the county, which sjjeaks well for the morals 
and intellio-ence of the inhabitants. 



ST. CLAIR COUNTY 

Is situated in the northwest of what is generally termed 
Southwest Missouri, and is separated from the Kansas 
line by Bates and Vernon counties. The face of the 
country is undulating, and well diversified with prairie 
and timber. The soil is generally fertile and well adapted 
to all the purposes of the farmer or stock grower. Iron 
ore is found in this county, and there are promising indi- 
cations of lead, coal and oil. The Osage river traverses 
the county from southwest to northeast, and, Avith tribu- 
tary rivers and creeks, furnishes plent}"- of excellent water. 
Osceola, the county seat, is situated near the center of 
the county, on the Osage ri-\'er, which is navigable up to 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 47 

this point during the greater part of the year. This is a 
flourishing town, and supports a number of wholesale 
houses, and an enterprising and loyal newspaper — The 
Osceola Herald. No county in the Southwest has a more 
enterprising population, or can offer greater inducements 
to the iraniiffrant. 



STONE COUNTY. 

Borders on the Arkansas line, and has an area of about 
400 square miles. The surface is generally broken, and 
in some places mountainous. Timber covers about three- 
fourths of the county, and consists chiefl}' of oak, hickory, 
pine, and cedar. The pineries are large and of fine qual- 
ity. The bottoms of the numerous streams are very pro- 
ductive. White river, with its many branches, furnishes 
excellent water in abundance, and numerous mill sites. 
indications of lead and iron are frequent and promising. 
No mines yet opened. Galena, the county seat, is situa- 
ted on White river. There are yet remaining 200.000 acres 
of government land in the county. 



TANEY COUNTY. 

Is situated on the Arkansas line. The face of the countiy 
is broken and hilly, and the soil better adapted to stock 
raising and fruit culture than to ordinary farming. The 
greater part of the county is covered with forests of oak, 
hickory, and pine of great size. It is excellently^ watered 
by White river and its numerous tributary creeks, which 
also furnish fine water power for all manufacturing pur- 
poses. But the chief source of prosperity to Taney 
county lies in its minerals. Iron, copper, zinc, lead, and 
other minerals, are found in large quantities. Lead is 
especially abundant, and diggings pay from the surface. 



48 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

Recent discoveries along Swan creek have revealed new 
" leads," which are astonishingly rich. In one well authen- 
ticated instance, two men, with an old axe and a sharp stick 
as mining tools, dug fourteen hundred pounds of the ISest 
quality of lead ore in one day ! Little, if any, systematic 
mining has been heretofore attempted, but nov,' prepara- 
tions are being made by responsible companies to develop 
this great source of wealth. There are 200,000 acres of 
government land subject to entry. Forsythe, the county 
seat, is situated on White river. 



VERNON COUNTY 

Is situated in the northwest corner of Southwest Missouri, 
bordering on the Kansas line. The face of the countr}- is 
gently undulating, the greater part consisting of prairie, 
with a sufficient amount of timber interspersed. Good 
water is abundantly supplied by numerous streams. The 
soil is rich and very inviting to the farmer and stock- 
grower. The greater part of the county is underlaid by 
the best of coal, and there are strong indications of petro- 
leum. Vernon county suffered severely during the war ; 
but since peace has returned, is being rapidly filled up bj' 
an intelligent and industrious class of settlers. Nevada 
City, the county seat, is a flourishing and attractive town. 



WEBSTER COUNTY 

Is situated in the eastern part of »Southwest Missouri, and 
has an area of about 550 square miles. The face of the 
country is principalh^ rolling and hill3\ The valleys and 
part of the uplands are fertile, and jield large crops of 
corn, wheat, tobacco, etc. More attention has been paid 
to stock raising than to any other branch of farming, and 
has been very profitable. All kinds of fruits grow to per- 



MISSOURI AKD KANSAS. 49 

fection. Plentj^ of timber, principally oak and hickory. 
Building stone is abundant. Iron, copper, and lead have 
been found. A recent discovery of lead on Panther creek 
is said to be very rich. Water is plenty. The Atlantic 
and Pacific Railroad crosses this county, and owns a large 
amount of the best farming and mineral land in the county. 
Marshfield is the county seat, and is pleasantly' located. 
The Marshfield Yeoman^ a weekly newspaper, is a credit 
to the town aiid count}'. Thei'e are yet 100,000 acres of 
government lands for entr^'. 



WEIGHT COUNTY 

Is situated in the eastern part of Southwest Missouri, and 
is one of the highest counties of the Ozark range. The 
surface is hilly, and in places mountainous. The valleys 
of the streams, Avhich afford the country a plentiful supply- 
of water, are rich and productive. The hills are adapted 
to grazing, and generally covered with a fine growth of 
timber, chiefly oak and pine. vStone, for building, is found 
in abundance. Iron, lead, and copper exist in the county, 
but no mining has yet been attempted. Hartville, the 
county seat, is situated on Wood's Fork of the Gasconade 
river, and is steadih' recovering from the effects of the late 
war. 200,000 acres of land are yet subject to entr^'. 



50 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 



T ABLE 

Exhibiting the Population in 1860, the amotini of Unentered Government Land, and 
the Minerals existing in each Counttf in the State. 



ADAIR 

ANDREW 

ATCHISON 

AUDRAIN 

BARRY 

BARTON 

BATES 

BENTON 

BOLLINGER 

BOONE 

BUCHANAN 

BUTLER 

CALDWELL 

CALLAWAY 

CAMDEN 

CAPE GIRARDEAU 

CARROLL 

CARTER 

CASS 

CEDAR 

CHARITON 

CHRISTIAN 

CLARKE 

CLAY 

CLINTON 

COLE 

COOPER 

CRAWFORD 

DADE 

DALLAS 

DAVIESS 

DEKALB 

DENT 

DOUGLAS 

DUNKLIN 

FRANKLIN 

GASCONADE 

GENTRY 

GREENE 

GRUNDY 

HAKRISON 

HENRY 

HICKORY 

HOLT 

HOWARD 

HOWELL 

IRON 

JACKSON 

JASPER 

JEFFERSON 

JOHNSON 

KNOX 

LACLEDE 

LAFAYETTE 



300,000 



50,000 



200,000 



20,000 



50,000 



Lead. 

Coal. 

CoaL 

Copper and Lead. 

Kaolin, Pipe Clay, Fire Clay. 



Iron. 

Coal, Marble. 

Big Cave, Lead, Iron. 

Marble. 

Lead, Coal, Mounds, Oil Springs. 

Iron, Copper. 

Oil Spring, Coal. 

Coal. 

Coal. 

Iron, Lead, Copper. 

Coal . 



Lead, Coal. 

Iron, Coal, Lead, Chouteau Springs. 
80,000jlron, Lead, Copper, Coal. 
30,000!lron, Copper, Coal. 
100,000 Copper. 



300,000 



14,000 
6,000 



30,000 



4,560 
50,000 



100,000 



Copper, Iron, Mounds. 
Lead. 

Iron, Lead, Copper, Alabaster. 

Saltpetre Caves . 

Copper, Coal. 

Iron, Lead, Copper, Caves. 



Iron, Coal. 
Iron, Lead. 

Lead, Coal. 

SIron, Lead, Gold, Marble, Kaolin, 
} Platina, Nickel, Granite, Emery. 

Lead, Zinc. 

Iron, Lead, Copper, White Sand. 

Coal, Manganese. 

Iron, Lead, Bryce's Spring. 
Iron, Lead, Copper, Coal. 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 



51 



LAWRENCE.. 

LEWIS 

LINCOLN 

LINN 

LIVINGSTON. 
MACON 

MADISON 



MARIES... 

MARION 

McUONALU 

MERCER 

MILLEU 

MISSISSIPPI 

MONITEAU 

MONROE 

MONTGOMERY . 

MORGAN 

NEW MADRID.. 

NEWTON 

NODAWAY 

OREGON 

OSAGE 

OZAPJv 

PEiVIISCOT 

PERRY 

PETTIS 

PHELPS 

PIKE 

PLATTE 

POLK. 



11,865 
7,36.3 
7,624 
3,886 
8,904 
5,136 
3,428 
7,650 
4,834 
'2,919 
9,266 
7,516 
5,U97 
14,165 
15,119 

10,030 

PULASKI I' 3,835 




1860. 



8,772 
10,419 
11,362 
8,5.55 
6,833 
14,710 



5,338 

15,782 

4,875 



SIIXERALS. 



75, coo; Coal. 



iCoaL 

1,480 Coal. 

Copper, Co.il. 

7,000} 

! ^Iron, Lead, Copper, Zinc, Gold, 

i (Silver, Tin, Nickel. 

27, 000 1 Iron, Lead, Copper. 

; iCoal, Pipe Clay, Fire Clay. 

3 ; 976 200 , 000 : Lead , Caves . 

9,286 (Keported) Co.al, Iron, and Coi)per. 

6,076 75,000 Lead, Iron, Coal. 

3,762 j 

10,202 iLead, Coal, Iron. 



50,000 



Coal . 
Lead. 

■Lead, Coal, Csives. 
I 
Lead, Zinc. 



300,000 



PUTNAM. 

KALLS 

RANDOLPH 

RAY 

REYNOLDS 

RIPLEY' 

ST. CHARLES 

ST. CLAIR 

ST. FRANCOIS 

STE. GENEVIEVE. 

ST. LOUIS 

SALINE 

SCHUYLER 

SCOTLAND 

SCOTT 

SHANNON 

SHELBY 

STODDARD 

STONE 

SULLIVAN 

TANEY 

TEXAS 

VERNON 

WARREN 

WASHINGTON 

WAY'NE 

WEBSTER 

WORTH 

WRIGHT 



20,000 



57,000 
195,000 



10,000 



9,209 

6,1.54 

8,838 
12,050 

3,266 

8,618 
14,370 

6,256 

7,. 549 

7,199 
182,857 
10,120 

6,882 

9,170 

4,744 

1,972 

6,942 

7,942 

2,333 

9.235 

3,540 

6,071 

4,920 

7,782 

8,034 

5,086 
6,8801100,000 



200,800 



300,000 
100,000 



Lead, Copper. 
Iron, Lea<l. 



Iron, Lead. 
Lead, Iron, Coal. 
Iron, Lead, Copper. 
Coal. 

Iron, Zinc. 

Iron, Saltpetre, Caves. 

Coal. 

Saline Springs. 

Petroleum, Coal. 

Iron . 

Iron, Lead, Copper. 

Coal, Oil Springs. 

Iron, Coal. 

Iron Mountain, Lead. 

Lead. 

Coal, Marble. 

Saline Spring.?, Lead. 

Coal. 

Iron . 

Iron, Lead, Copper, Gold. 

Coal. 

Iron . 

Iron, Lead, Oil Springs. 

Lead, Copper. 



< Lead, Copper, Silver, Zinc, Cob.ilt, 
( Alabaster. 



Iron, Lead, 

NE\v.|...I...lCoal. 
4, 4401200, OOOiLead. 



52 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 



RAILWAY DISTANCES. 



Below will be found tables of distances on all the Railways in 
operation in the State : 

UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD OF MISSOURI. 



St. Louis, Seventh street 

" Fourteenth street 

Cheltenham .'> 

Lacleile 8 

■Webster 10 

Kirkwood 13 

JJarrett's 16 

Meramec 19 

Gravel S witch "22 

St. Paul 24 

Gravel Switch 2.) 

Glencoe 20 

VValdstcin Switch 28 

Eureka 30 

AUentou ,32 

Dozier Switch 34 

Franklin 37 

Gray's Summit 41 

Labadie 44 

South Point .'j2 

Washington 54 

Newport 62 

Miller's Landing 67 

Berger 75 

Hermann 81 



Gasconade 88 

Chamois 100 

St. Aubert 105 

L'Ours Creek 109 

Bounot's Mill 112 

Osage 117 

Jefl'erson City 125 

Scott 132 

Lookout 140 

California 1.50 

Tipton 163 

Syracuse 168 

Otterville 176 

SmithviUe 181J 

Sedalia 189 

Dresden. . .'. 106 

Knobnoster 208 

Warreusburgh 218 

Holden 233 

Krigsville 237 

Pleasant Hill 249 

Lee's Summit 2«1 

Independence 274 

Kansas City 283 



ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC RAILROAD. 



Frankl in 

Catawissa 4* 

Calvey Ol 

Moselle ll| 

St. Clair 18 

Staunton 28 

Sullivan 33} 

Bourbon 40 



Stations. 



Harrisou 45^ 

Cuba 53 

Knobview. 60i 

St. James 66 

Dillon 71 

Rolla 76i 

Little Piney 88 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 
NORTH MISSOURI RAILROAD. 



53 



Miles. Stations. Miles. 


MUes. Stations. Miles. 




107 Mexico 107 


4 Bellet'ontaiue 300 


121 Ccntralia 183 








139 Itenick 165 




146 Allen 158 


13 Bridgton 291 


157 Jacksonville 147 

168 Iluilson l-JH 




173 Bevier 131 


20 St Charles iSl 


177 Callao 127 




1!)2 Bucklin 112 


33 O'Fallon 271 


19S St. Catharine 106 


37 PeiTuque 267 

4-2 Wentzville 262 

48 Millville 256 

51 Wii"-l)t's 'iriS 


202 Brooktield 102 

207 Laclede !»7 

22S Chillicothe 76 

233 Utica 71 








254 Hamilton 50 


72 Ili-li Hilt 232 

76 Florence 228 




275 Osborn... 29 




292 Easton 12 


W Martinsburg 210 


304 St. Joseph 







IRON MOUNTAIN RAILWAY. 



Stations. 



Miles. 



St. Louis 86 

1 Lanii street 85 

6 Carondelet 80 

8 Ivory's 78 

10 Jeflersoa Barracks 77 

14 Grimslcv's 72 

18 Jellerson 68 

21 Kimuiswick 65 

21 Windsor Harbor 65 

23 Sulphur Springs (m 

26 Illinois 60 

27 Peevly 59 

30 Porines .56 



35 Hematite 51 

39 Victoria 47 

42 De Soto •. 44 

47 Tunnel 39 

.50 Blackwell's 36 

57 Cadet 29 

61 Mineral Point 25 

65 Hopewell 21 

69 Irondale 17 

74 Blairsville 12 

81 Iron Mountain 6 

m Middle Brook 3 

86 Pilot Knob 



CAIRO AND FULTON RAILROAD. 



Miles. Stations. 


Miles. 


Miles. Stations. 


:Miles. 


Cairo 


37 


"0 Scoville.... 


17 


1 Bird's Point Mo . 


36 

33 




18 




26 Sikestown 

31 Hamilton 

33 Little River 


11 


G Harrison's 

8 Fish Lake 


31 

29 

24 

19 


6 

4 


13 Charleston 


37 Builin'j"ton 





18 Bertrand 





54 MISSOURI AXD KANSAS. 

HANNIBAL AND ST. JOSEPH RAILROAD. 



Stations. 



Miles. 



Hannibal 200 

10 IJarklcy 19(; 

It Palmyra 192 

30 Monroe , 170 

37 Hunnewell 10f» 

47 Shelbiua ISO 

.59 Clarence 147 

67 Carbon 139 

70 Hudson KK 

75 Bevier 131 

79 Callao 127 

91 B..cklin 112 



Miles. 



Stations 



100 St. Catharine 10(i 

10-t Brookfield 102 

109 Laclede S>7 

130 Cliillicothe 7(> 

135 Utica 71 

145 Breckenridge (51 

156 Hamilton .50 

171 Cameron 35 

177 Osborn 29 

185 Stewartsville 21 

194 Easton 12 

200 St. Josepli 



The Platte County Railroad is in operation from St. Josepli through 
Halls, Rushville, Winthrop, Sugar Creek, Atcliison, latan, to Weston. 
Distance, 37 miles. 

DISTANCE FROM ST. LOUIS TO SIOUX CITY BY RIVER. 



Stations 



Mouth Mi.ssouri River 20 

JJollefontaiue Bend 5 25 

Charbonicr 10 35 

St. Charles 10 45 

Howard Bend 12 57 

Howell's Ferry 5 02 

Dozier ' s 5 07 

Tav'ern Rock 2 09 

St. Albans 1 70 

Murdock' s Woodyard 3 73 

Augusta " 3 76 

.Jones Point 3 78 

South Point 4 82 

Wasliington 1 83 

St. .Jolni's Islau'l 4 87 

Newport Landing 2 89 

ITe.atherley's Woodyard. ... 8 97 

Miller's Landing... 1 1 98 

Pinkney and Griswold's. . . . 3 101 

Bates' Woodyard 10 111 

Hermann 10 121 

Mouth Gasconade 8 129 

Monning's Landing 2 131 

Portland 10 141 

Fisher's Woodyard 5 146 

St. Aubert 5 151 

Month Osage 13 104 

Mouth Mofeau 5 109 

-TeU'erson City 5 174 

C;laysvdle 7 isi 

Marion 10 191 

Eureka Landing 5 196 

Martin's Landing 2 198 

Nashville 7 205 



Stations. 



Miles. 



Providence 2 207 

Mount Vernon 5 212 

Kocheport 8 220 

Boonville 12 232 

Mouth Lamine 8 240 

Arrow Rock 8 248 

Little Arrow Rock 7 2.55 

BluffPort 6 261 

Glasgow 4 265 

Cambridge 9 274 

Keytesville Landing 10 284 

Buckhorn Point 8 292 

Brunswick 8 300 

Grand River 1 301 

Windsor City 7 308 

Miami 7 315 

Thomas' Woodyard 6 321 

Ilill'sLanding 20 341 

St. Thomas and Waverly.. . 5 346 

Dover Lauding 13 .359 

liCxington 12 371 

FarmviUe Landing 1 372 

Wellington 7 379 

Camden 10 389 

Napoleon 8 .397 

Cogswell's Landing 5 402 

Sibley 5 407 

Richfleld 14 421 

El Paso Landi ng 8 429 

Liberty 7 430 

^Vayne City 7 443 

Randolph 8 4.51 

Kansas 4.57 

Kansas River 3 459 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 



I'iirkvillc 13 472 

Little Platte River 1 473 

N'auRaukins IG 4S9 

Leavenworth 8 497 

I'latte City Lasniing 3 50-2 

Weston 4 SOG 

Kickapoo 7 51-2 

Atchison 20 .v;2 

Columbus Landing 6 550 

Mavsville 6 556 

Hart's Lauding 10 5GG 

^t. Joseitli 25 581 

Hellemont (Steam Ferry)... 4 5S5 

Vonton 4 589 

Savannah Landing 10 599 

Sultan 3 G03 

Dallas 10 G13 

Lower Oregon 12 G25 

Iowa Point 7 632 

Upper Oregon 1 633 

White Cloud 10 643 

Big Nimeha 10 653 

RushBottom 10 663 

Marietta 10 673 

St. Stephens 2 675 

Lowell 5 680 

Hemmes 1 681 

San Deroine « 689 

Morgan Island 5 694 



Miles. 



Nimeha City 2 096 

Rockport 6 702 

Brownsville 2 704 

Sun Island 5 709 

Sonora 1 710 

Linden 15 725 

Sidney Landing 1 720 

Nebraska City l.s 7U 

Wyoming 11 755 

Kenosha 20 775 

Rock Bluff. 10 785 

Bethleham 6 791 

Plattsmouth 1 792 

La Platte 7 799 

St. Mary's 6 805 

Belleview 6 811 

Council Bluffs, lower 7 818 

Council Bluffs 10 828 

Omaha City 2 830 

Florence 10 840 

Crescent City 10 840 

De Soto 40 880 

Tekaniah 35 915 

Little Sioux 10 925 

Decatur 35 960 

Blackbird Hills 30 990 

Omadi 30 1020 

Sargent's Bluffs 10 1030 

Sioux City 20 1050 



TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM ST. LOUIS TO NEW 
ORLEANS BY THE RIVER. 



Stations. 



St. Louis to Jefferson Barracks.. 12 

Herculaneum 30 

Selnia 36 

Ste. Genevieve 59 

Kaskaskia Landing 65 

Mouth Kaskaskia River 80 

Chester 84 

Grand Tower 130 

Bainbridge 140 

Cape Girardeau 1,56 

Commerce 172 

Cairo 207 

Columbus 225 

Mills' Point 240 

New Madrid 283 

Island 11 287 

Needham ' s Cut-off" 341 

Plumb Point .361 

Fulton 371 

Mouth of Hatchic 377 

Randolph ■ 382 



Stations. 



Miles. 



Memphis 447 

Commerce 487 

Helena 532 

Napoleon 642 

Gaiues' Landing 682 

Columbia '. 702 

Greenville 714 

Port Worthiugtoii 74-1: 

Grand Lake 749 

Ashtou 764 

Lake Providence 774 

Milliken's Bend 824 

Vicksburg 849 

Grand Gulf 899 

Rodney 917 

Natchez 977 

Mouth Red River 1037 

Bayou Sara 1077 

Baton Rouge 1112 

Plaqueniine 1137 

New Orleans 1247 



GENERAL DESCRIPTIOiN OF KANSAS. 



Kansas is bounded on the north by Nebraska, on the 
east by Missouri, on the south by the Indian Territory, 
and on the west by Colorado. Tlie State has an area of 
41,580 square miles, or 26,611,200 acres of land, to the 
first guide meridian west. It has fortj^-five counties al- 
readj^ organized, and considerable territor^^ yet to be laid 
off as soon as the population justifies it. The topography 
is somewhat varied, yet beautiful, there being no ver}^ 
high hills or extended ridges, or mountains. Through 
the northeastern portion of the State there is a constant 
chain of small ridges running along the Missouri river 
from Wyandotte to White Cloud, in Brown county ; and 
as the traveler goes westward,- the hills diminish in size 
until the whole face of the country becomes gentl}'^ undu- 
lating. Farther south in the State, we find in the eastern 
counties mounds or ridges, until south of Fort Scott, when 
they gradually disappear, and the surface of the country 
is gently rolling. 

The State is entirely devoid of swamps and marshes, 
consequently it is all tillable land, adapted to raising all 
kinds of grain, and for the rearing of stock. 



Along the Missouri river and its tributaries timber is 
plentiful, principally of oak, Cottonwood, walnut, and elm. 
Back from the river, in the northern tier of counties, it 
becomes scarce, except on the many small streams that 
course through the countrj^ On the Kansas, Osage, and 
Neosho rivers, and their numerous tributaries, plenty of 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 57 

timber of good quality, such ns oak, walnut, and cotton- 
wood, is to be found. The timber on Spring river and 
Cow creek, in southern Kansas, is of the first and finest 
quality. 

SOIL. 

The soil in the northern counties is black, coarse, lime- 
stone soil, and produces most excellent crops. Through 
the center of the State it is black lime, mixed with sand, 
and is also good. While further south the soil is not so 
dark, but more of the red or mulatto "soil, so famous 
tlu'oughout the southwest portion of Missouri. On the 
river and creek bottoms it is a black, sand}' soil. The 
red or mulatto soil produces the best wheat west of the 
Mississippi river. 

The three different kinds of soil mentioned constitute 
the principal soils throughout the State. No one will 
ever object to Kansas on account of soils, for it is rich in 
ever}^ part of the State, and corn, wheat, oats, rye, barley, 
and all kinds of grain and vegetables do well. There is 
not a section of land in the State that is not adapted to 
farming purposes. And along the Kansas river especially 
the country is most desirable, it having a railroad running 
from Wyandotte, on the Missouri river, to Saline in the 
west, and with a road from Leavenworth intersecting the 
the main branch of the Pacific Road at Lawrence. The 
LTnioii Pacific Railway Company has over one million 
acres of choice farming lands for sale, at prices varying 
from one dollar to twent}^ dollars per acre. 

MINERALS. 

Kansas abounds in minerals of all kinds. Building 
stone, of sand and lime, is found in quarries in almost 
every county in the State, and can be used for building 
purposes, or for fencing, at a very small expense. We 
noticed in our travels throus-h the State that the eastern 



58 MISSOtJRl AND KANSAS- 

settlers know how to use this stone to an economical 
advantage. Coal is plentiful thi'oughout the center and 
southern counties, and oil is being discovered in a few 
places. Salt wells are operated in Miami count}', and are 
yielding a good profit. There is but little known as yet 
of the mineral wealth of Kansas. Professor Swallow is 
now making out the geological survey of the State. Ores 
of all kinds are thought to be scarce. A very valuable 
marble quarr3% called " Black Egyptian Marble," is found 
at Fort Scott, in Bourbon count}-, and they have a factory 
there, where they are testing its quality with very satis- 
factor}' results. 

AVATKR. 

The principal river is the Kansas, or Kaw, and its tribu- 
taries ; and from the 97 meridian westward, the Arkansas 
flows about a degree north of the southern boundary. The 
general direction of this latter river is from west to east. 
Its principal tributaries within Kansas are the Neosho, 
Verdigris, and Little Arkansas, all large streams. 

The Kansas river falls into the Missouri at Wyandotte, 
and with its numerous affluents, drains a vast surface. Its 
length is about 600 miles. The Osage, another large 
stream, drains the country between the Kansas and Ar- 
kansas rivers. It has many consideral)le branches, which 
drain a rich and well timbered section. It flows through 
the whole length of the Sac and Fox Indian Reservations, 
the lands of which are celebrated for the richness of their 
soil. 

COVERNMKXT LANPS. 

The government yet owns land in almost every county 
in the State, and millions of acres in the State are j-et 
lying vacant, to be homesteaded at $10 for 160 acres, or 
subject to entry at $1 25 per acre. The land that is still 
open to entry is as fertile as am^ that is in cultivation. 
See Homestead Law in another part of this publication. 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 59 

COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES. 

There is 275 miles of railroad completed and iu running 
order, comprising the Missouri River Railroad, a portion 
of the Atchison and Pike's Peak, Leavenworth and Law- 
rence, and the Union Pacific. The latter is now being 
constructed at the rate of 200 miles per annum. The most 
important railroads projected are the Leavenworth, Law- 
rence and Galveston, Kansas and Neosho Valley Road, 
Union Pacific South Brancli, Atchison, Topeka, and Santa 
Fe. 

The government has endowed these roads liberally with 
lands. In addition to these, there is the Platte Country 
Railroad. The Missouri river also affords a highwaj' for 
commerce. The advantages of Kansas are far superior to 
those of Ohio and Indiana iu the early days in a commer- 
cial point of view, which will brighten the home of the 
industrious immigi-aut as he settles within her limits. 

SCHOOLS. 

Schools arc conducted in this State on the broad, liberal, 
free school system, similar to the school law of Ohio and 
Indiana, and are in a prosperous condition throughout the 
settled portion of the State. The Normal School at Em- 
poria, Lyon county, is a flourishing institution of learning 
for the purpose of educating young ladies and gentlemen 
for teaching. There are several academies and seminaries 
throughout the State — one at Lecompton, one at Lawrence, 
one at Leavenworth, ouc at Ottumwa. and a commercial 
college at Topeka. 

CHURCHES. 

The difterent sects are fully represented in the difllerent 
parts of the State, and are all in a flourishing condition. 



TWO YEARS' TRAVEL 



RESIDENCE IN MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 



CHAPTER I. 



Introductory — A Nioht at West Qlixcy — A Happy Couple — Rail- 
road Adventure, the Iron Horse Gives Out, Bushwhackers — 
Arrival at Macon — Dry Jokes — St. Joseph, its Prosperity — 
Weston — Steamer Emily — Arrival at Leavenworth. 

The traveler in foreign lands has unquestionably a more 
conspicuous and attractive field than the home tourist. 
The more remote the field, the more perilous the adven- 
tures encountered in passing over it, the more fascinating 
the traveler's story. While polar zones, Northern Africa, 
Central Africa, and unknown localities generally have the 
preference with the reading public, it is nevertheless true 
that much valuable information may be gleaned in field,s 
nearer home. These nearer fields have, beside, a greater 
and prior claim upon the seeker of knowledge. His edu- 
cation, in this respect, should commence at home. A 
knowledge of his own country, its climate, resources, 
phj'sical features, population, customs, laws, etc., should 
be an essential and indispensable part of his course of 
stud}'. It is not so. "We not unfrequently meet with 
persons who know more about Madagascar and Kamt- 
schatka than they do of their own land. A learned pun- 
dit, who prided himself on knowing the exact height of. 
Chimborazo, and the number of islands in the Grecian 
Archipelago, was utterly discomfited by the question as to 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 61 

the whereabouts of "Bear Grass." He knew the outliue 
of foreign shores, was familiar with outlandish names and 
places, but of "Bear Grass," a stream that flowed not a 
score of miles from his own home, he had never heard. 
We are happy in knowing that of late years more atten- 
tion is being given to the geography of om' own coun- 
try. We believe that the time is coming when our best 
scholars will consider first in their list of accomplish- 
ments a thorough knowledge of the land in which they 
live. Thoreau thought Walden Pond and its neighbor- 
hood a universe in itself, and cared to go no farther. We 
may find in the limits of a neighborhood, or State, a realm 
more fruitful to the student in quest of knowledge, than 
the kingdoms of Greece and Rome. It is better, after all, 
to know something of " Bear Grass," to know a little even 
of our limited home-world, than a great deal about the 
uttermost parts of the earth. With these views I make 
no apology for presenting my readers with a few incidents 
and items of travel through the States of Missouri and 
Kansas, a region that the professional tourist has passed 
over and over again without mention. 

Early in the year 1865 I entered the State of Missouri, 
crossing the Mississippi at Quincy by a ferry which con- 
nects the eastern and western portions of the Great 
Western Railroad. We landed at West Quincy late in 
the evening, and, as there were no trains going west, were 
obliged to remain till next day at a hotel of somewhat 
primitive construction. Of its three rooms, one was used 
as a kitchen, storeroom and bedroom, another as a dining- 
room, barroom and bedroom, and the remaining one as a 
parlor and bedroom, for the special use of travelers. Into 
this ten or twelve ladies and gentlemen, including a bride 
and groom, were crowded. AVho ever traveled by rail 
car or steamer any gi-eat distance without meeting at least 
one happy couple just wedded, fond, shy, embarrassed, 



62 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

yet striving to appear self-possessed and unconscious of 
the scrutiny of their fellow travelers ? Such are almost 
invariably the objects of friendly interest. They have the 
tender sympathies of the benedicts, who recall memories 
of their own silver honeymoon, bright and beautiful, not- 
withstanding the golden daj^s that have followed. They 
are to the bachelors pleasant reminders of a path the}- 
themselves shall one da^^ tread, when each one shall have 
singled out, and wooed, and won the fairest, truest and 
most beautiful of womankind. There are, however, many 
disadvantages in being newly married, and not among the 
least of these the limited accommodations of this hotel, at 
which our bridal part}^ stood aghast. The other travelers 
resigned themselves with philosophical composure to cir- 
cumstances, and even enjoyed the novelty of this expe- 
rience of western life. The bridal party, through the 
kindness of the landlord, were accommodated with lodg- 
ings at a private house. The rest remained to enjoy their 
crowded and uncomfortable position, and to turn their 
misfortunes into a jest. The " muchness" of the thing, as 
Artemus says, amused them. As a result, the ice of re- 
serve was broken, and they, who a few hours before were 
strangers, suddenly became well acquainted, and enjoj'ed 
each others' societ3^ Travelers may journey side by side 
for days and scarce exchange a word, while an untoward 
accident, or adverse experience like this, will establish sym- 
pathy at once. Sidney Smith says that he was traveling 
in an omnibus with strangers, but when the omnibus over- 
turned he ^^ found them all out,'" a witticism doubly true. 

With the return of morning we prepared to resume our 
journey, but failed to get our trunks across the river till 
late in the day. At last we were ready and started on 
our westward waj'. We passed over a fine farming coun- 
try, supped at Palmyra, a fine looking town, and thence 
onward at the rate of about ten miles an hour. The trip 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 63 

was rendered attractive by a spice of danger. Tlie war, 
which in the Southern States had already assumed gigan- 
tic proportions, was carried on in Missouri in a desultory 
manner by organized bands of bushwhackers, who prowled 
about in quest of plunder,. stopping railroad trains, rob- 
bing and sometimes killing the passengers. In view of 
these depredations the travelers had armed themselves, 
each with a navy revolver or two, and were prepared for 
any emergency. In addition to these perils from free- 
booters, the road was so rough as to be dangerous, the 
railroad company not being able in the unsettled condition 
of the countr}' to make the necessary repairs. We passed 
wrecks of cars every few miles. At the bridges blockhouses 
had been erected and guards stationed, Avhose business it 
was to protect the trains and keep the bushwhackers from 
burning the bridges. Our progress was slow, and soon 
became perceptibly slower. The " iron horse " began to 
show unmistakable signs of fatigue, and at a distance of 
twenty miles from Palm^Ta was completely exhausted and 
stopped. The perils of the position were sufficiently obvi- 
ous. It was night, we were in a dangerous localit}^, and 
knew not liow soon the enemy might be upon us. At this 
moment we most desired to be fljing OA'cr the prairie, but 
instead we were becalmed, as it were, for an uncertain 
time in a locality that we could not regard as either pleas- 
ant or safe. What of man's works is more helpless than 
a railroad train attached to a refractory engine ? A man 
was sent forward with a lantern to the next station a few 
miles ahead, who telegraphed to Hannibal for another 
engine, which in the course of a few hours, seeming very 
long to us, arrived and relieved us from om- real or seem- 
ing perils. Once more gliding over the rails in safety we 
despised the dangers we had feared before, and even, 

" Alas for the rarity 
Of Christian charity," 



64 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

insinuated that our ferocious brakemen were more to be 
feared than any bushwhackers wliatever. Another danger 
was perhaps overlooked, that of dying of old age before 
the train should reach its destination, We were sanguine 
and cheerful, notwithstanding the long, sleepless night 
passed in " waiting for the wagon." The newh' married 
couple bore themselves heroically, cheering each other from 
time to time with words of comfort and assurance. The 
scene was truh^ affecting. Long after sunrise we arrived 
at Macon City, where the hungr}^ ones of our sleepless 
crowd breakfasted. Here we saw a company of Illinois 
soldiers guarding a few prisoners, clad in Confederate 
gray suits, and looking woebegone. Macon City is a 
handsome, thriving place, and the point where North 
Missouri Railroad intersects the Hannibal and St. Joe 
Railroad. The country that we passed through abounds 
in oak openings, or barrens, and has not the appearance 
of richness or fertility. We, nevertheless, passed through 
some fine villages, and noticed same fine farms, principally 
along the water-courses. Breakfast over, the cry of " all 
aboard " from the conductor saluted our ears. Some of the 
boj^s in blue suggested a "rail" instead of a " board," a 
good suggestion for those traveling in muddy times in an 
old-fashioned stage coach, and considering the condition 
of our railroad, not altogether inappropriate to us. We 
were often obliged to move slowly and cautiousl^^ over 
broken or defective rails. Saxe's raikoad song could 
scarcely apply to our train, unless perversely parodied, 
and made to read : 

"Crawling o'er the 'meadows, 
Creeping like a snail, 
Bless me this is tedious. 
Riding on a rail." 

As we proceeded westward the country became more 
and more attractive till we reached a point about forty 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS, 65 

miles east of St. Joseph, where it presents an exceedingly 
inviting appearance. The soil was a dark, rich loam. 
Noble forest trees skirted the streams. There seemed 
about equal proportions of prairie and timber land. The 
pleasing landscape inspired our company with new life 
and cheerfulness. We reached St. Joseph at five o'clock 
r. M., and were greeted at once with a deafening clamor 
from hackmen and hotel runners. The confusion and 
uproar were quite city-like. Trunks were treated by bag- 
gage masters with their accustomed disrespect. Some 
were thrown or slammed so violently as to be burst open, 
greatly to the wrath of the helpless owners, who swore 
great oaths like " our arm}' in Flanders," as their treas- 
ures were thus ruthlessly exposed to the gaze of a promis- 
cuous rabble. I escaped from this hurl}^ burly as best I 
could, and taking as deliberate a survey as possible of the 
various representatives of the hotel world of St. Joseph, 
selected the most plausible* looking scamp among them, 
and gave m^'self and baggage unresistingly into his hands. 
The hotel was crowded. Six of us were assigned to one 
room, but this was decidedly better than our accommoda- 
tions at West Quincy. The landlord was obliging, the 
fare was excellent, and we considered ourselves fortunate 
and happ3'. 

St. Joseph, even at this season of the year, and this 
stage of the war, was enjoying a high degree of prosperit3^ 
Trade was brisk, the hotels were crowded to their utmost 
capacity, and the railroad was scarce equal to the de- 
mauds upon it for tranportation of freight. The Missouri 
river was open, and steamboats were briskly transporting 
freight from St. Louis to all points above. St. Joseph 
contained at this time about 20,000 inhabitants, and was 
rapidl}^ improving. It is now, and will continue to be, a 
place of great importance. 

After a brief rest in this attractive place I resumed 



66 anssouRi and Kansas. 

my journey, on the Platte Country Railroad. At an 
early hour of a very pleasant clay we took our leave of 
St. Joseph. Our route lay along the eastern shore of the 
Missouri river. Richer bottom lands and finer farms than 
are found along this road, I have seldom or never seen. 
We arrived in due time at "Weston, then the terminus of 
our railroad, a small village, seven or eight miles north of 
Leavemvorth City, noted for picturesque hills surrounding 
it, its conspicuous bridges over deep ravines, and its no 
less conspicuous beer saloons. Here we were met by the 
nice little steamer Emil}^, and her nice clerk appropriately 
yclept Nicety, a name descriptive of the manner in which 
things were managed on this model boat. An hour's ride 
over the beautiful Missom-i brought us to Leavenworth. 



CHAPTER II, 



Leavenworth, its Situation, Commerce, PoruLATiox, Signs of 
Prosperity, the Fort, Pilot Knob Cemetery — A JorRNEY by 
Stage Coach — A Rich Country^ — Topeka, Description — Modern 
Pioneers — "The Universal Yankee" — Tecumseh, a City of 
the Past — Lawrence, its History', Qvantrell's Raid, Present 
Prosperity-. 

This city is situated on the west bank of the Missouri 
river, two miles south of Fort Leavenworth, and thu'tj'- 
five miles north of Kansas Cit3\ It is the principal busi- 
ness city west of St. Louis, and the population, which in 
1855 was 1,500, is noAV about 25,000. The Missouri 
flows by with a swift and deep current, but good landing 
facilities are afforded by a natural levee of rock. The 
surrounding country is sufficiently elevated to render it 
healthy, and sufficiently broken and uneven to give it a 
picturesque appearance. A large business in manufac- 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 67 

taring wagons for emigrants about to cross the plains, is 
carried on here. In 1865 nearly 5,000 wagons were laden 
at this point for New Mexico, Denver, and Salt Lake City. 
Goods were reshipped from Fort Leavenworth to the vari- 
ous forts and military stations on the i^lains westward. 

The city of Leavenworth is very handsomely laid out, 
and contains many fine as well as substantial brick build- 
ings. The citizens are principally eastern men, and are 
noted for their intelligence, enterprise, and public spirit. 
Loafers and idlers of every class are held at a discount 
among them. We were fortunate in making the acquaint- 
ance of some genial and noble hearted men during our 
brief sojourn in this city. Four daily and five or six 
weekly newspapers are published here. These papers are 
ably conducted, and a sufficient indication of the intelli- 
gence and enterprise of the people may be found in their 
well-filled columns. "We believe that in all essential par- 
ticulars Leavenworth will compare favorably with any city 
of its size in the Union. 

After visiting the Fort, the Government Farm of 2,000 
acres, and the Government Hill, as it is called, we paid a 
visit to Pilot Knob, on which the Cemetery is located, and 
from this point obtained a beautiful view of the city and 
surrounding country. The Cemetery, of course, is want- 
ing in many of the features which add a solemn interest 
to the burying places of older cities. There are no old 
tombs or mouldering, time-worn monuments. "The rude 
forefathers of the hamlet " have not j^et found a grave, or 
if they have, it is not here. There are comparatively few 
dwellers in this " silent city." As j^et, Leavenworth is in 
its 3'outh and prime, and is, p«?' excellence, a city of the 
living. 

From Leavenworth we went to Topeka, the capital of 
the State. Our convej^ance was a lumbering stage coach, 
a vehicle fast becoming obsolete in eastern localities, and 



68 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

used here only for a time. The doom of the stage coaches 
has ah-ead}^ been pronounced. The}^ are driven westward 
with the red man, and like him, are doomed to ultimate 
extinction. Our route lay over Government Hill, by 
Easton, Winchester, Osawkee, Florence, and Wyoma. 
The scenery along the route was attractive, the soil ap- 
peared to be rich ; there was abundance of limestone in 
ledges, suitable for building purposes, but there appeared 
every where to be a scarcity of timber. We noted many 
brick and stone houses, the latter being the first seen since 
leaving the Eastern States. It was late in the evening 
when we arrived at the Kansas river ferry, two miles east 
of Topeka. After a little dela^^ at the crossing, we were 
driven in to Topeka, and set down at the door of the Chase 
Hotel. After our weary ride, we were glad at the pros- 
pect of resting in a place so pleasant as this seemed to be. 
We were agreeably surprised to find in the capital so many 
evidences -of intelligence, enterprise, and refinement. 

Topeka is situated in the midst of a rich agricultural 
district, on the Southern bank of Kansas river, and eight}- 
miles west of Kansas City. It has a population of 4,000, 
and a fair proportion of churches, schools, etc. Topeka, 
like Leavenworth, has been settled and built principally 
by Eastern men. With this class of pioneers, no town or 
village is planned or built in which the church and school 
house do not form leading features. The men of this class 
are not in reality pioneers of civilization, inasmuch as 
they carry their civilization with them. The true pioneers 
were men of a different t3^pe ; men who hated cities and 
settlements, who loved solitude, who lived in huts and 
cabins, and fought single-handed against savage men and 
savage beasts. Boone and Kenton Avere examples of such. 
The modern pioneers are more gregarious in their habits. 
They love the hum of crowded streets, the excitement of 
trade ; they take kindly to patent labor-saving machines, 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 69 

and delight in speculation. They arc skilled in the coii- 
struction of paper towns and air-line railroads. They 
have a keen scent for oil wells and coal beds, and have a 
happy knack of making the most out of the least favor- 
able surroundings. Those men find out at once the apti- 
tudes of soil, climate, surface, and locality, and farm, 
manufacture, herd cattle, or engage in traflic accordingly. 
These are the men who are to make the desert to rejoice, 
and the wilderness to blossom as the rose. Topeka has 
its share of them. They are not saints, nor yet sinners 
above all men, but simply active, restless, go-ahead-ative 
men, who have set out to lay the foundations of empire, 
and thoroughlj" believe that they are the men to do the 
work. Success to them. Future generations, perhaps, 
will appreciate their labors. 

The Santa Fe route, by way of Fort Riley, passes 
through Topeka. The daily stage coaches on this line 
appear always crowded. After a brief stay in this city, I 
set out by stage coach conve^'ance for Lawrence, Douglas 
county. The country passed on this route consists mostly 
of rolling prairies. There are many well improved farms, 
and substantial brick or stone buildings, Tecumseh, the 
former capital, in which the pro-slavery Legislature met to 
plot against freedom and right, seemed an exception to 
the general prosperity of the country through which we 
passed. VTe could not but note and reflect upon its 
sorry appearance. Whatever glory it may once have had 
has all departed. Even the old State House was being 
demolished, and its bricks removed to Topeka. The town 
was dead as the institution in whose interest it was origi- 
nally planned and built. We may say of it, as has been 
said of so many cities ruined and half-forgotten, it has 
been. Tecumseh was. We pass from Tecumseh to Law- 
rence — from a dead to a living city. Lawrence the ill-fated 
when Tecumseh was in its prime, but to-day the happy and 



70 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

prosperous. No western town has a sadder, bloodier his- 
tory than Lawrence. The loyal inliabitants had suffered 
again and again from fire and sword. Outrage after out- 
rage was perpetrated upon its liberty-loving citizens, and 
yet it survived. As I looked upon the now thriving city, 
I noticed some vestiges or traces of Quantrell's raid, and 
recalled the tragic history of the dark daj-s, happily passed 
forever. How impossible it is that wrong should ever per- 
manently triumph. Truth has a native vigor that defies 
the oppressor and WTong doer. As the poet says : 

"The eternal years of God are her'.':." 

I recalled the words of the old song, sung years before 
the " irrepressible conflict " became a desolating war. 
They contain a prophecy that is to-day verified : 

"The type that in the river lay — 
Thrown there for serving freedom — 
Washed clear and bright, shall come to light 
Some day, when truth shall need them." 

So bright are the uses of adversity. Apparent disaster 
is after awhile victory. Water can not quench a living- 
truth, and fires can not consume it. Lovejoy's type click 
in a thousand offices consecrated to freedom, and cities 
laid waste by the torch rise from their ashes, to be again 
a home for civilization and refinement. 

The citizens of Lawrence are a liberal minded, liberty- 
loving people. Their city wears a prosperous look, and 
has nearly or quite recovered from the damage inflicted 
upon it during the war. The buildings are neat in appear- 
ance, and built generally' of brick or stone. There are, of 
course, good school houses and churches. Among the 
latter we maj'- particularly mention the Methodist church, 
a handsome brick structure, and that of the Unitarians, 
built of stone, and ornamented with a town clock. This 
church is free to most of the denominations, and is often 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 71 

used as a lecture room ))y the Progressive Friends. Three 
railroads add to the commercial importance of Lawrence. 
The surrounding coimtry is well adapted to farming pur- 
poses ; and timber, which in other parts of the State is not 
plentiful, here is found in abundance. 



SOUTHWESTERN KANSAS. 

CHAPTER III. 

Baldwin* City — Prairie City — Ottawa — Ohio City — Garrett — 
Leroy — B urlingtok — Ottum wa — Hartford — Neosho Rapids — 
Quaker Settlement — Emporia — State Normal School — Col-x- 
ciL Grove — Fort Riley — Ixdiaxs — Pacific Railroad Lands — 
Coal Mines — Topeka. 

After spending a few days and forming a few agreeable 
acquaintances in LawTsnce, I purchased a horse and buggy, 
and in company with a friend set out to visit the south- 
western part of Kansas. Although it was the first of April 
when we stai'ted, we found the roads very good, and the 
new mode of traveling decidedly preferable to the old, and 
more enjoyable. The traveler in a stage coach is virtually 
a prisoner. The movements are regulated bj' the whim 
of the driver ; in his own conveyance he has a sense of 
freedom, which adds very essentially to the pleasure of 
traveling. Baldwin City, the first point'of importance on 
our route, is a pleasant little village. Most western cities 
are ^'illages. They are called cities bj- vray of compliment, 
or possiblj^ in a prophetic spirit, the name being a prophecy 
of future importance. The traveler cannot but notice in 
western towns and villages a peculiarity that may be termed 
7iub-is7n. Every considerable place is certain to be located 
in a central position. The Bostonians do not more perti- 
naciouslv believe in their city as the hub of the universe 



72 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

than do these western city builders in their own favored 
town sites. These claims are not made without much 
show of reason, and at this early date it would be hard to 
predict as to what city should be the -favored one in the 
contest for precedence. 

Baldwin Cit}' is at present an unassuming village of 
perhaps four hundred inhabitants. There is here a pros- 
porous college, under the patronage of the Methodist 
Episcopal Church. Prairie City, also a village, is located 
about two miles west of Baldwin City, contains about two 
hundred inhabitants, and has an excellent school house. 
The soil in this part of Douglas county is very rich, but 
timber is not abundant. We pass next to Ottawa, on the 
Osage river, the county seat of Franklin county-. At the 
time of our visit, the town, which had only been planned 
a j^ear before, was being rapidly built up. Indications of 
thrift and enterprise were every where apparent. Eighteen 
miles further south we find Ohio City, the former county 
town. There were only a few houses here, and but one 
well, and that containing but little water, not enough to 
supply our wearied and jaded horse. The surrounding 
country looks well, but there is here the generally pre- 
vailing scarcity of timber. Garnet, the county seat of 
Anderson count}^ through which we next passed, is a 
small village, yet handsome in appearance. At Hum- 
boldt, the county seat of Allen county, located on the 
banks of the Neosho, we found abundance of water and 
timber. "VVe found here indications of coming spring. 
The grass was already green, and this was in the early 
part of April. The timber in the river bottoms was prin- 
cipally oak, walnut, Cottonwood, hickorj', and ash, and 
was of ver}' luxuriant growth. Our next halt was made 
at Leroy, a small town in Coffee count}^, northwest of 
Humboldt. At Burlington, the county seat of the same 
county, we made several agreeable acquaintances, among 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 73 

them Mr. Proutley, the able editor of the BurUngton News. 
liiirlington is situated on the left bank of the Neosho 
river, and contains a population of about one thousand, a 
woolen factory, saw and grist mill, etc. The surrounding 
country is Avell supplied with water and timber, Ottumwa, 
also in Coffee county, is a beautiful village on the eastern 
bank of the Neosho river, and reminded us of " the city 
set upon a hill, which can not be hid." From the high 
mound on which it is located ma}^ be obtained a fine view 
of the surrounding countiy. A large brick school building 
has been built here by the Christian denomination. In 
the vicinity may be found abundance of timber, and occa- 
sional ledges of building stone. The farms w^hich dot the 
country at short intervals are well improved. Passing 
through a small village called Hartford, M^e next visited 
Neosho Rapids, a village near the border of Lj'on count}', 
in a well timbered region. There is here a large mer- 
chant's flouring mill. The Neosho valley is well settled 
with an industrious, enterprising people, and is well 
adapted for farming and stock raising purposes. A short 
distance aboA'e the village is the junction of the two Cot- 
tonwood creeks, which thence become Neosho river. "We 
continued our journey in the direction of Emporia, the 
county seat of Lyon county. Within five miles of the 
town, we passed tlu'ough a beautiful farming district, 
the neat houses and well cultivated farms reminding us 
strongly of some flourishing Quaker settlements that are 
found in Ohio and Indiana. The dress of the people, and 
their peculiar use of the pronoun " thee," verified our con- 
jectures. They were Quakers from Indiana and Ohio. It 
is a noticeable fact that this peculiar and really sagacious 
people invariably select the best and most fertile lands for 
their settlements. • The presence of Quakers is conse- 
quently a sufficient evidence of the richness and fertility 
of the localities in which they are found. 



74 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

Emporia is situated between tlie two Cottonwood creeks, 
about a mile from eacli. Tlie State Normal School is 
located here, and is said to be in a prosperous condition. 
We shall remember Emporia with pleasure from the very 
agreeable acquaintances formed here. Judges AVatson 
and Hunt are specially remembered. 

We next passed through Council Grove, a fair little 
place, and then stopped at Fort Riley on the Kansas river, 
and now an important point on the Union Pacific Railroad. 
The country around it is very productive. Junction City, 
a few miles west of Fort Riley, bids fair to be an impor- 
tant point for trading, as it is likely that all the goods for 
the Santa Fe and New Mexico trade will be shipped to 
this point. Our next stopping place was Manhattan, a 
few miles northeast of Fort Riley, and also on the Pacific 
Railroad. All the land thus far traveled over had been 
of good quality, fertile, and well suited for farms and 
stock raising. The principal and only drawback com- 
plained of by the farmers, was the summer droughts, 
which recurred generally on alternate j'cars, according to 
popular report. The two last years have, however, proved 
exceptions, there being plenty of rain, and excellent crops. 
This and other circumstances, leads many to suppose the 
dry season to be excej)tional, rather than the fixed rule. 
We believe that the average of the crops will prove quite 
equal to those of other States. The grass always does 
well. 

While going through Council Grove, Fort Riley, Man- 
hattan, and other places, we met and conversed with 
Indians of various tiibes living in the State of Kansas. 
All were friendly, and some quite intelligent. Those in 
this State are all friendly and civilized. From Manhattan 
we passed down the Kansas river, stopping at the various 
towns on the wa}-, which though as yet small, have the 
natural elements of improvement, and at no distant day 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 75 

will become thriving and prosperous places. The Union 
racific Railroad owns largo tracts of the public lands 
lying along the river, as well as some of the richest locali- 
ties in Kansas. 

AYhile mentioning the delicienc}' of wood in some parts 
of the State, we omitted noting the existence of coal 
mines in various localities. There are occasional indica- 
tions of oil. Oak, walnut, and cottonwood timber abounds 
in the valley of the Kansas. 

Continuing our journey, we passed through the pleasant 
town of Topeka, making, however, but a brief stay. We 
passed mau}^ beautiful farms. In fact the valley of the 
Kansas abounds in such. 



CHAPTER lY. 

At Lawrexce — News of Lee's Surrender — Public Rejoicixg — 
The Assassination of President Lincoln — Sudden Revulsion 
OF Feeling — The Grief of a Nation — From Lawrence to 
Leavenworth — Delaware Reserve — Indian Tribes — Effect of 
Civilization — Santa Fe Trains — Atchison — An Indian Preach- 
er, HIS Theory Concerning the Failure of Missionaries — At- 
chison County — Jackson County — Topeka — Burlingame — Ridge- 
AVAY — Twin Mounds — Clinton — J. A. Beam — Bloomington — Osage 
Hedges — Dairies. 

"We arrived at Lawrence just as the citizens had received 
tlie intelligence of the evacuation of Richmond by Lee. 
At this news the courage of the weak and doubting revived, 
and they began at last openly to express hope for the 
Union. The ncAvs of the surrender of Lee, on the follow- 
ing day, was too good to be true ; but when Gen. Grant's 
oflicial report arrived, all classes gave way to one common 
outburst of joy and congratulation. Banners were un- 
furled to the breeze from many a flag staff, and were sus- 



76 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

pended by ropes stretched across the principal streets. 
All seemed to partake of the general jo}'. 

Lawrence had suffered as no other northern city had. 
At one time it had been burned to ashes, and the citizens 
murdered, unarmed and in cold blood, by a band of 
guerillas, while those capable of defending its hearths and 
homes were alxsent doing service in the armies of freedom. 
These were to return. The days of pillage and slaughter 
Avere over, and there was to be no more war. To the 
citizens of Lawrence the change was almost millenial, 
and they rejoiced as only a rescued people can rejoice. 
The waving of banners, the firing of guns, and the ringing 
of bells, formed the outward expression of a joy too deep 
for words or sjunbols. A happy people thronged the 
streets, among them manj^ contrabands — contrabands no 
longer — who had fled during the war from the border 
counties of Missouri, and now were rejoicing in true camp 
meeting style, shouting, -weeping for joy, and praising 
God. The scene was indescribable. To the poor slave, 
who had spent almost a life time in bondage, and who now 
knew that he was free, it was trul}^ a blessed day. His 
grotesque expressions were not unnatural or extravagant. 
"Bress de Lord ! " "Bress Massa Lincoln — Gen. Grant — 
General Sherman ! Bress every body ! " were common 
exclamations. 

" The year of Jubilee had come." 

Ere the people had concluded their manifestations of 
joy which the last message from Washington had called 
forth, came the terrible news of the assassination of Pres- 
ident Lincoln at Wood's Theatre. Men turned pale at the 
tidings ; houses were darkened ; public and other buildings 
draped in mourning ; and the sounds of lamentation were 
heard. Perhaps in the annals of history there has been 
no such sudden revulsion from joy to grief, as on this 
memorable day. The same scene of gladness turned 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 77 

suddenly to grief was witnessed in every cit}-, town, and 
hamlet of the loyal portion of the countr3\ Yet here, in 
Kansas, as the rejoicing was proportionately greater, so 
was the sorrow deeper than that which found expressioii 
elsewhere. Here as elsewhere, the grief was limited to no 
party or clan. All united in a spontaneous tribute to the 
illustrious dead. At the news of the ghastly wound in- 
flicted by the assassin upon the Chief Magistrate of the 
nation did bleeding Kansas bleed afresh. The people of 
no other State mourned more deei)ly the death of Lincoln 
than those of Kansas ; and it may be safely asserted that 
no other State is more true to the principles for which 
that well beloved man became a martyr. Kansas is to- 
day, and ever shall be, sacred to Freedom. 

The reader will excuse the digression prompted by the 
joyful and sad events that followed each other so closel}^ 
Once more to the prosaic task of describing localities, of 
noting the peculiarities of soil and surface, and of mark- 
ing the changes and improvements that have passed and 
are passing over this new land. 

The country between Lawrence and Lea\'enworth was 
formerly known as the Delaware Reserve, and is now 
owned principally by the Union Pacific llailroad Com- 
pany. It presents an agreeable variety of prairie and 
timber lands ; and has some fine streams of water, and 
occasional ledges of good building stones. Portions of 
two Indian tribes still remain on Kansas river, near 
AVj-andotte and Kansas City. They are of the Delaware 
and Shawnee tribes. They have among them some very 
good schools, and have attained a very creditable degree 
of civilization. There are nearty as many Indians seen 
in the streets of Kansas City, Wj'andotte, Lawrence, and 
Leavenworth, as negroes. As a people, the red men arc 
fading away, and must soon be no longer a distinct race ; 
we have nevertheless many examples that tend to show 

5 



78 Mrssouui and Kansas. 

that, with the proper care and culture, they may become 
civilized and useful members of society. The descendants 
of such may, with our people, inherit the broad acres that 
once were Icnown as the happy hunting grounds of Nature's 
most untutored children. Civilization is offered them 
with its attendant blessings. They may accept it and 
live ; or reject it and be swept awaj- as leaves before the 
blast. It is a sad fact that a vast majority accept only 
the vices of civilization, its idle habits, its gaming, its 
libertinism, its bad whisk}', and then perish as surely as 
the leaves fall in autumn. 

The old reservation here is certainly a fine tract of 
country, and niay well excite the covetousness of the 
" pale faces," who are just now possessing themselves of 
the goodly land. The distance from Lawrence to Leaven- 
worth is thirty-five miles by the wagon road, and proved 
rather a pleasant drive. We passed many well cultivated 
farms, and encountered an occasional prairie schooner, or 
large covered wagon, used in crossing the plains. The 
Mexicans vrere at this time coming in with their long 
trains. Some of their wagons were drawn by asmany as 
ten yoke of oxen, a small caravan in themselves. These 
wagons passed in a continuous stream, one disappearing as 
another came in sight. There was no part of the road in 
which one or more of them could not be seen. Passing 
from Leavenworth to Atchison, we found the country 
more hilly than usual. There was very little timber ; the 
road was rough and stony, and the general appearance of 
the landscape less inviting. The city of Atchison itself 
was not more prepossessing than the country crossed in 
reaching it. Atchison is nevertheless a brisk, thriving 
place, is well situated for commerce, has a railroad run- 
ning through it, and extending for a considerable distance 
west. While at Atchison, I had the somewhat rare priv- 
ilege of hearing an Indian preach. The sermon, which 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. i\) 

was preached in the Episcopal Church, was singuhir, and 
in many respects memorable. The preacher, who had 
been educated in the northeastern part of Indiana, and 
was acting as a missionary to his people in Kansas, dis- 
cussed missionary matters in a very original and pertinent 
manner, but advancing many odd and apparently skeptical 
ideas. He asserted, for instance, in attempting to account 
for the failure of the white missionaries to his race, that 
the}' committed the mistake of trying to enforce a belief 
in the historical parts of tlie Old Testament, rather than 
the first principles of Christianity, the law of Love, and 
the waj' to do right. The Indians, he asserted, never 
could or would believe the miraculous stories of the crea- 
tion, the deluge, the confusion of tongues, the crossing of 
the Red Sea, etc., etc. ; and they wonld put no faith in 
any one who asserted their truth. They must first, he 
urged, be taught to know the difterence between good and 
evil, right and wrong. They must he taught to shun the 
white man's fire water, and to trust in the white man's 
God, who is the Great Spirit of spirits, and Life of all life. 
Mail}', Avithout sharing the preacher's skepticism, will cor- 
dially concede the point that the first instruction of a 
religious nature to a savage and uncultivated mind should 
be an appeal to the conscience rather than an attempt to 
teach history. It is true that the history has an important 
bearing on the principles taught, but still, it is an adjunct 
and not an essential to salvation. That the missionaries 
have not been more successful in their labors among the 
Indian tribes may be attributed in part to errors in teach- 
ing, but it is doubtless owing in a still greater degree to 
the failure of the whites, as a race, to make their own 
practice accord with the principles they teach. The whites 
offer them at once the Bible and a cup of fire-water. They 
give them a law and gospel which they themselves set at 



80 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

defiance, and the result is what might be expected — the 
poor Indian becomes badly demoralized. 

From the preacher and his text we pass to more appro- 
priate themes. We left Atchison for Topeka after a short 
stay. What we saw of Atchison county differed not much 
from the .country between Atchison and Leavenworth. 
The soil was good enough for farming purposes, but tim- 
ber was scarce. There v;as, however, plenty of building 
stone. There were several well improved farms, belong- 
ing to peo])le from the eastern and northern States. We 
passed next into Jackson count}^ and Avere much pleased 
with the appearance of the country. The people complain 
of their bleak wintry winds. In this county are promising 
indications of coal. The immigration is from the eastern 
States. 

From Ilolton, the county seat of Jackson county, we 
re-visited Topeka, passing again over the rich, beautiful 
bottom lands already described. We then passed south- 
ward by Auburn and Burlingame in Osage county. In 
this county are some excellent lands and fine streams of 
water ; but the prairies are high and extensive, and the 
country, especially in the southern part, thinly settled. 
From thence Ave traveled towards Lawrence, passing 
through Versailles, Ridgeway, and Twin Mounds. Ridge- 
way is appropriately named. Twin Mounds is so named 
from two large elevations, each covering an area of one 
hundred acres, and standing very nearly together. There 
are at this place a hotel, postoffice, and grist mill. There 
are indications of coal here. The site is a beautiful one, 
commanding as it does an extensive and pleasing view of 
the surrounding countr3\ The next place of note on this 
road is Clinton, distant twelve miles from Lawrence. 
This village is the home of J. A. Beam, the communist 
reformer and philanthropist. He is doubtless a good man, 
and he has certainly made great sacrifices in behalf of his 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 81 

principles. His aim has been to establish a society or 
ooinmunity on the plan advocated by the Apostles, " where 
all things shall be held as common propert3\" Whatever 
may have been appropriate in the apostolic ages, it is cer- 
tain that in these modern days what is known as com- 
munism is not likelj^ to obtain any great favor among 
men. One mile east of Clinton is the pleasant little town 
of Bloomington. In the immediate neighborhood, there 
is plenty of timber and water. Further on, towards Law- 
rence, timber is more scarce, but stone is plentiful, and 
is used by the farmers in building fences. I noted on this 
road some beautiful Osage hedges. These grow well in 
all parts of the State. Dairies are, here and elsewhere in 

the State, kept to ad\'antage. Mrs. , an eastern lad}' 

residing near Burlingame, Osage county, made, from the 
milk of twenty-two cows, about 40 pounds of cheese per 
day. This she did for two summers, adding to the profits 
the value of twenty-two calves, which she raised each 
season. She received at the end of three months about 
$800 for the cheese alone, and estimating the calves at the 
close of the year as worth $10 apiece, we have a total 
profit of ^1020 per annum. With the assistance of her 
two daughters, and hired help, she carried on her farm so 
as to add very materiall}- to her gains from the dair}-. 
Few men are to be found who could carry on the alfairs of 
a farm and dairy as successfully as does this enterprising 
lady. There is quite a demand here for dairy products, 
as Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico, derive their supplies 
principally from this region. 



32 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 



CHAPTEK V. 

An Expedition to the Chehokee Neutral Lanbs, the Outfit,' 
Object — J. A. Beam and his Theories — Constitution of the 
Progressiye Fraternity — The Rendezvous at Lawrence — The 
First Night in Camv — Prairie City — Stanton — Osage Hiver — 
The Doctor's Adventure — Miami County — Twin SfrIng>s — Linn 
County — Paris — Moneka — Mound City — Fort Lincoln — Fort 
Scott. 

A trip to southeastern Kansas, southwestern Missouri, 
and the Cherokee Neutral lands, ■nill richly repaj' the 
tourist. Having heard so much of this admirable country, 
a company numbering eight persons, including the writer, 
set out on a pilgi-image, or rather expedition, to satisfy 
theu' curiosity with regard to this land of promise. As 
the country had been the scene of many a bloody foray, 
and was even then infested with bushwhackers, we found 
it necessary to go armed, and so provided ourselves with 
a formidable array of guns and revolvers. We took with 
us a carriage, wagon, three saddle horses, and a liberal 
supply of blankets, provisions, etc. As we were all of 
the temperance reform school, the latter did not include 
the usual supply of alcohol, to enliven our parting or 
cheer us on our way. We had in our party E. B. Sawyer 
and his wife, and the reformer, A. J. Beam, and his wife. 
The object of the reformer was to find a well watered and 
timbered tract of land, in some healthy locality, where he 
could establish a communit}', and carry out his long cher- 
ished idea of communism. The presence in our compan}- 
of this noted man, will justify' a more extended reference 
to his principles, and the fundamental features of the 
association which he proposed to establish. He takes, as 
the basis of his reform, the Apostolic idea of community 
of goods and interests, which he deems essential to equality 
of condition and happiness. Article second, of what may 
be considered as the constitution of the association, reads 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 83 

as follows: "The fundamental principle of this society 
shall be that of fraternity ; each for all, and all for each ; 
and from each according to his ability, and to each accord- 
ing to his wants," The person becoming a member of 
this society, puts into tlie common fund, all his property, 
whether it be much or little, and thenceforward shares 
equally in labor and its rewards with the poorest. He 
does not receive more for having contributed much ; he 
only receives in proportion to his wants and necessities. 
The man able to work ten hours per day shares equall^^ 
with the man who can work but five ; the man with ten 
children receives enough to supply his wants ; the man 
vnth. one or none receives according to his necessities. 
The principle of fraternity requires that all should share 
alike. Friend Beam advocates free schools, free churches, 
and universal freedom. He contends that the law of love 
is the only true law by which the world can be redeemed. 
His principles are noble, too noble for this hard and selfish 
age, and few can be found willing to give themselves for 
the nniversal good. It is thought best in the imperfect 
state of society to have laws regulating the acquisition 
and tenure of property, under which one man may grow 
enormously rich and another abjectly poor, and the man3^ 
are made to subserve the interests of the few. Commun- 
ism supposes men to be purer, better, and less selfish than 
they are, and too much ignores the force or law necessary 
to control evil men, because it ignores too much the evil 
in man. We concede its adaptation to a perfect state of 
society, but " the good time coming" is yet, we fear, far 
distant. Nature has given us, in this western land, many 
of the physical conditions of a second Eden ; broad and 
fertile plains,' luxuriant forests, crj-stal streams, mild cli- 
mate, and serene skies, 

"And only man is vile." 
We append, as not altogether out of place in this con- 



84 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

neclion, a synopsis of the articles governing this asso. 
ciation : 

CONSTITUTION OF THE PEOGRESSIVE FRATEENITT. 

We, the undersigned, believing the present form of society to be 
imperfect, and to have a tendency to make men selfish; and desiring 
to establish a more comfortable and harmonious home, where we can 
act upon the principle of fraternal love ; where there will be no rich 
and no poor, but all stand upon the basis of equality ; where we can 
have better advantages for the cultivation of our moral, intellectual, 
and social natures, do hereby agree to establish the following Consti- 
tution for our government : 

Art. 1. The name of this society shall be The Peogressive 
Fraternitv, as expressive of our desire to progress from ignorance 
to wisdom, and from selfishness to brotherly love. 

Art. 2. The fundamental principle of this society shall be that of 
fraternity — each for all, and all for each, and from each according to 
his ability, and to each according to his wants. 

Art. 3. The laws and regulations of this society shall be estab- 
lished by the wisdom of the majority of the members of the fraternity. 

Art. 4. Members of both sexes shall have the same social, politi- 
cal, and educational privileges, and shall be equal in every particular. 

Art. 5. All members will be expected to labor as many hours 
each day as the wisdom of the society may deem necessary, except 
Sunday, which shall be devoted to rest, recreation, and improvement. 

Art. 6. All members of this society having capital and property 
must turn it over to the society, for its use, as soon as practicable. 

Art. 7. Any member of this society can withdraw at any time, 
and claim the amount of capital (without interest), furnished by such 
member, with one-half of the net profits of the society, in proportion 
to the number of members, and the time said member served the 
society. 

Art. 8. The domain, industrial implements, live stock, and capi- 
tal of the society, shall be held as common property, and each member 
will be expected to care for the property as his own. 

Art. 9. A President, Secretary, Treasurer, and a Board of five 
Trustees shall be elected annually. 

Art. 10. It shall be the duty of the President to make sugges- 
tions for the improvement of the society, to see that all members 
perform their duties faithfully, to report delinquents, preside at all 
meetings of the society, and preserve order. 

Art. 11. It shall be the duty of the Secretary to take care of the 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 85 

Constitution and books of tlie society, to record all of its proceedings 
faithfully, and to attend to the business correspondence of the society. 

Art. 12. Resolved, That the dual relation of the sexes accords with 
tlie law of nature, and leads to liarmony aiid happiness. 

Art. 13. The society binds itself to furnish food, shelter, clothing, 
and educational advantages to all, and each person is bound to operate 
for the general welfare of the society. 

Art. 14. We promise to conduct ourselves in a becoming and 
appropriate manner ; to use no profane or vulgar language ; to abstain 
from tlie use of intoxicating drink, as a beverage ; to live in such a 
manner as will best conduce to our spiritual development. 

Art. 15. This Constitution may be changed or amended by a vote 
of two-thirds of the society, at a meeting called for the purpose, after 
which change or amendment any member can leave the society upon 
the terms herein specified. 

Art. 1G. All families and single persons shall, as soon as practi- 
cable, have separate rooms for their exclusive use. 

Art. 17. We agree to do all in our power to exalt and perfect the 
government in which we live. 

Art. 18. The capital of deceased members, dying without will, 
shall be faithfully transmitted to their legal heirs. 

Art. 19. Any vacancy occurring in the offices of this society 
sliall be filled immediately, by an election held for that purpose, after 
due notice. 

The members of the society adopting these articles were 
not, as has been maliciousl}^ asserted, either Mormons or 
free lovers, but persons of correct morals and unques- 
tioned intelligence, who would compare favorably with the 
better class of people in au}^ communit}'. This much is 
due to them and to friend Beam, whose character for 
truthfulness and lieuevolence is unimpeachable. Ilis com- 
pany and conversation added materially to the enjoyment 
of our social circle. We found in liim at once a philoso- 
pher and friend. 

Our party met at La^vrenee to arrange the preliminaries 
for departure, and as this occupied some time we did not 
commence our journc}^ till late in the day. "We made our 
lirst halt at a point twelve miles from Lawrence, and three 
miles from Baldwin Citv. We found here no thronged 



86 MISSOUKI AND KANSAS. 

hotel, and had in fact no roof aboA'e us but that grand 
dome which God has reared over all. There are no arbi- 
trar}^ or class distinctions here. Under the glorious roof- 
tree of heaven repose together the rich and poor, the 
prince and peasant, the lofty and the lowly, and side by 
side they slumber in peace beneath the watchful eye of 
the Master of life. It is to be hoped that we were duly 
impressed with the grandeur and dignity of our sleeping- 
apartment. At any rate, with a feeling of real enjoyment 
we folded our blanlcets around us and lay down to rest on 
the sod of the prairie, feeling the same respect 'for our 
dewy couch as did the noble Indian chief when pressed to 
sit upon a chair. " No," said he, looking at the strange 
piece of furniture, " earth is my mother ; I will repose 
upon her bosom." And we did repose. Sweeter and 
more refreshing slumbers I have seldom known. We 
woke in the morning with the dew upon our locks, but 
refreshed and strengthened. Some of our party were in 
poor health, but this trip was better than medicine ; they 
grew stronger every day, and ere the journey was over 
had forgotten their ailments altogether. 

After feeding our horses and partaking of a gips3^-like 
breakfast, we resumed our journej", halting a while at 
Prairie City, where we met a few friends, and then pro- 
ceeding in the direction of Staunton on the north side of 
the Osage river. ^Ve passed over high, rolling prairies, 
and during most of the day kept in sight of the timber 
on the Osage, or Ossawattomie river, as it is sometimes 
called. We arrived at last at Stanton, a small village 
located on a hill. We did not claim the hospitality of its 
citizens, but found a good camping ground near by, afford- 
ing certainly more generous accomodations than an}^ hotel 
in Stanton. We had traveled thirty-two miles, and as a 
consequence enjoyed our rest. On our way to this place 
we fell in with a man, who, as ho was traveling in the 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 87 

same direction ■with us, joined our party for a time, but, 
riding faster than our horses carried us, finally went 
ahead, accompanied by a member of our party, a doctor, 
who promised to rejoin us at night. lie did not, however, 
niake his appearance, and we could not conjecture what 
liad become of him. The next morning we passed the 
town of Ossawatomie, known as the home of John Brown. 
In this town we found salt wells, from which is manufac- 
tured salt of a very good quality. The country surround- 
ing Ossawatomie is fertile. Here we overtook our friend, 
the doctor, who had fared hardl}^, and had a doleful stor}^ 
of mishaps to relate. He had attempted to come back to 
our camp late in the evening, but in crossing the ford of 
the Osage had missed the lauding place, and found him- 
self at large in a brushy bottom, surrounded by such 
clouds of mosquitoes that, he avers, he coiild not see the 
path. His horse was tired, and night coming on he had 
no resource but to remain there, and concluded to spend 
the night sitting on a log and fighting mosquitoes. How 
bravely he fought, how heroicall}' he suffered will never 
be known ; but he doubtless struggled manfully with fate, 
and would have held out till morning, but while fighting 
against fearful odds he heard somewhere in the distance 
the faint tinkling of a cow bell. Never did sweeter or 
more welcome music fall upon his ear. He followed the 
sound, and found a path which led to a fence, and follow- 
ing the fence he found a school house, where he biv- 
ouacked for the night, finding in the walls of the school 
house a partial protection from the mosquitoes. His 
horse fared sumptuousl}' on some corn gathered from the 
field of which the fence was the boundary. "We sympa- 
thized, of course, with the doctor in his misfortunes, but 
were none the less amused at his adventures. He slept 
on a bench, and his dreams were a mere repetition of his 
adventures. In his slumbers he fought his battles over 



88 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

and over again. He has since entertained a very strong 
prejudice against mosquitoes, and tliinks he would rather 
figlit bushwhackers, for these when vanquished become 
quiet, but no Amount of killing can subjugate a crowd of 
hungr}^ mosquitoes. 

AYe were now in Miami county, of which Peola is the 
county seat. The land is good and timber abundant. 
This county is crossed by the Osage river. We passed 
next to Twin Springs, crossing some high stretches of 
prairie land, and passing by some rugged limestone bluffs. 
Twin Springs is a handsome place, and has some fine large 
springs of water, beautifully clear. We passed thence to 
Linn county, seeing nothing on our way worthy of special 
note. Before arriving at Paris, we crossed the Big Sugar 
river. Near this river, and in the A^alley, there is plenty 
of timber, but none on the hills. Paris is a small town, 
situated on a high prairie, and commanding a fine view of 
the surrounding country. There are some fine farms adja- 
cent, and stone coal is found here. 

We came next to Moueka, a pretty little village situated 
in a good country. Two miles south of Moneka is Mound 
City, on Little Sugar river. This is a thriving toAvn, with 
a steam mill and several stores, and good farms in the 
vicinity. It is twenty-six miles north of Fort Scott. Our 
next point was Fort Lincoln, in Bourbon count}-, on Little 
Osage river. The county is very inviting, and has plenty 
of coal and building stone, but timber is not plentiful. 
Twelve miles farther on we reached Fort Scott, on the 
Maraminta river, a town containing from four to five hun- 
dred inhabitants, and which has been much improved since 
the war. There are here good hotels, stores, mills, and 
factories, built of stone or brick. It has the appearance 
of a brisk and prosperous place. We here renewed our 
stock of provisions. Four miles south of Fort Scott, on 
the north line of the Cherokee neutral lands, we saw hills 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 89 

which imbedded coal of a very fine quality. The residents 
of Fort Scott have used it for a number of years. It is 
hauled to Lawrence, Leavenworth, and neighboring cities, 
to be used in smithing, as it is very free from sulphur, and 
commands a very high price. The demand for it is great, 
but the supply seems inexhaustible. 



CHAPTER VI. 

The Missouri Border — Jasper County — A Depopulated Region — 
Ripe Fruits — Pure Water — Rich Sou, — Camp on Spring River — 
Natural Vineyards — Deserted Homes — Camp on Shoal Creek — 
Reding's Mill — Grand Falls on Shoal Creek — Beautiful 
Scenery — Cherokee Farm — A Cherokee — General Appearance 
of the Country — Return — Cow Creek — Delayed by High Water 
Return to Fort Scott — Again at Lawrence. 

Passing from Fort Scott in a southwardly direction, in 
about eight miles we crossed the boundary line between 
Missouri and Kansas. Here, on Little and Big Drywood 
creeks, is abundance of timber. There are here signs of 
improvement, among them a saw mill and grist mill, which 
are sure indications of growth in a new country. We 
crossed over the eastern portion of Vernon and Barton 
counties, a beautiful section of country, rich in coal and 
stone. 

We saw, within fort^' miles of Fort Scott, nothing 
worthy of special note in the large prairies over which we 
passed, save an occasional herd of deer, or solitar^^ wolf, 
skulking at a safe distance, and apparently noting our 
movements and progress. This was in September. The 
war had closed, but emigration had not begnm to pour in 
as rnpidl}' as it now does, and we were impressed with the 
thought that the greatness and true wealth of this country 
was in the future. It has, in all probability, treasures that 



90 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

we know not of. At tlie branches of North Spring river, 
we were delighted to see pure water flowing over a pebbly 
channel, than which there are few things more beautiful in 
nature. We passed some farms and orchards on Buck 
creek, in the northern part of Jasper county. The fences 
had been burned down, as we supposed, by the prairie 
fires, but the apple trees were unharmed, and were bur- 
dened with apples, large and ripe, which we appreciated 
highly, coming as we did from a region as yet almost 
devoid of fruit. In the timber we found abundance of the 
wild summer grape, just beginning to ripen. ^Ye passed 
on over a beautiful slope of country, and crossed tlie South 
Fork of Spring river about fifteen miles east of the State 
line, and six miles west of Carthage. We crossed at 
Langle's Ford, and camped near a splendid apple orchard, 
and found beside, in the river bottom near by, plenty of 
grapes. Some of our company had provided themselves 
with fruit cans ; while the ladies busied themselves in pre- 
serving and canning fruits, the superfluous members of the 
camp were equally busy strolling about the surrounding 
country, and admiring its beautiful scener3\ Especially 
were Ave delighted with Spring river, the waters of which 
excelled in purity and transparency those of any other 
stream that I had ever seen. In the vicinity of our camp 
were to be seen plenty of deer and wild turkey's. We left 
this camp with regret, and passed in a southward direction, 
crossing Centre creek and Turkey creek, beautiful streams 
of pure running water. We passed many farms with fine 
orchards of both peach and apple trees, heavily laden with 
ripe fruit. We helped ourselves liberally to this fruit 
without an}' compunctions of conscience, for the farm 
houses were all deserted, and there was nobody in all the 
land to dispute our claim. These deserted homes v»^ere 
a sad and melancholy spectacle. This region had been 
a paradise ; it was not even now a wild. Besides the 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS, 91 

domestic fruit, we found many natural vineyards on the 
v>'oody ridges, full of luscious grapes, and in the bottoms 
plenty of wild plums. This seemed to all of us, more 
than any region we had j-et passed, " the promised land." 
Its streams, indeed, flowed not " with milk and honey," 
but with pure water, which was certainly a treasure of 
equal value. The ripe fruits upon the trees and vines 
invited us to pluck and eat, and there were no Canaanites 
in all the land to molest or make us afraid. 

We camped two days upon the banks of Shoal creek, 
and while there visited the shoals where Reding's mill 
is located. We found an excellent saw and grist mill, 
and many good frame houses. The houses were all de- 
serted, and the mill wheels were idle and useless. There 
was the same old music of running water, the same sun- 
shine fell aslant upon beams and rafters through the open 
windows, but within all was &ilent. The spiders wove 
their nets Avithout molestation, and the rats came from 
their holes unscared. They were the sole proprietors of 
the place. There are few sights more lonely than a de- 
serted mill. A dwelling is after all made up of idle walls 
and roof that have only given shelter to human beings ; the 
mill has been an active agent in their welfare, a bread-giver. 
The deserted house tells a story of a single family scat- 
tered and gone ; the idle and deserted mill gives evidence 
of a neighborhood desolated and depopulated. We went 
from this place to Grand Falls, situated on Shoal creek, 
in Newton county, fifteen miles west of Neosho, and four 
miles east of the State line. The farm of Mrs. Scott, at 
this point, had been desolated, and the dwelling and 
woolen factor}'^ burned by the guerrillas. The falls form 
a beautiful and picturesque scene. The creek is about 
two hundred feet in width, and falls on a ledge of rock 
twelve feet in height, and hurries away through a stony 
and uneven channel. We camped near this fall one night 



92 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

and part of a da}^ It is worth a journey to this fall to 
enjoy a shower bath under its beaded spra3\ The banks 
of this creek have rare beauty and picturesque aspect. 
The bottoms are full of the most luxuriant vegetation, 
and I found here the richest and best grapes I ever tasted, 
growing wild. While encamped here, IMr. Thompson, of 
Sherwood, came by and stopped with us daring the night, 
and gave us useful directions as to the roads as well as 
descriptions of the country. Our next stopping place was 
about eight miles west, on the farm of Mrs. Phillips, a 
half Cherokee, who had, on account of her Union princi- 
ples, been compelled to take refuge in Kansas during the 
war, and had just returned to her old home. She owned 
a large farm, an excellent orchard, a frame house, and a 
saw mill on Spring river. This region is included in the 
Cherokee neutral lands. We remained here several da^'^s, 
during which time, in company with A. J. Beam, I visited 
Mr. Harland, a Cherokee, who lived on Shoal Creek. Mr. 
Haiiand we found to be an intelligent man, and well educa- 
ted for a backwoodsman. lie had been driven from his 
home during the war, and robbed of most of his prpoert^^, 
and, like Mrs. Phillips, had returned to built up the waste 
places. He received us very cordially, and went with us 
to the junction of Shoal creek with Spring river, where he 
showed us some good mill sites. There is much large 
timber on these streams, and in some places on the up- 
lands may be found a fine growth of black and burr oak, 
while hickoiy, walnut, cherry, sycamore, and maple thrive 
on the bottom lands, growing in some instances to a gi-eat 
size. We were charmed with the richness of soil, the 
abundance of timber and water, and equally diversified 
appearance of the Cherokee neutral lands. Mr. Harland 
gave us the history of the neutral lands, which we omit 
as possessing no great interest. This is not the Cherokee 
reservation proper, that being in the Indian Territory, 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 93 

immediatel}- southwest of IMissoiiri, and south of Kansas. 
The imitral lands comprise about 1,250 square miles. 

We returned from this region on what is called the Fort 
Gibson, Baxter Spring, and Fort Scott road. We were 
obliged to go into camp for a day at the crossing of Cow 
creek, and Avait for high waters to subside. This crossing 
is forty miles south of Fort Scott. The creek is between 
thirty and forty miles in length, and drains a rich and 
well timbered portion of the neutral lands. We made the 
most of our brief stay on its banks, and were almost sorry 
when the waters fell so that we could cross it and resume 
our journe}'. We passed over a large prairie lying be- 
tween this stream and Cox's creek, but the country about 
the creek was well timbered. Fourteen miles farther 
travel brought us to Fort Scott, well satisfied with our 
delightful trip. Some of the part}' were so well pleased 
that they determined to return and spend the winter, and 
test the climate as well as the fruits of the country. 
Many of the former inhabitants were returning to the 
homes from Avhich they had been driven during the war, 
and they anticipated but little or no trouble from the law- 
less bands that had heretofore been such a terror. We 
met many such families on our way to Fort Scott. As 
for our part}', after returning as far as Moneka, we de\'i- 
ated from our original plan, choosiug a different route 
from that first determined upon. Some of us went by 
Ottawa, Minneola, and Marion to Lawrence, where we all 
met, and, with a few other citizens, discussed the advan- 
tages of the various sections we had passed over, and 
upon mature reflection concluded to return to the Spring 
river country, for the purpose of making permanent homes. 



94 mSSOURI AND KANSAS. 

CHAPTER VII. % 

Return to Spring River — Refl-gees Returning Home — Scarcity 
OF Houses — Camp at the Mouth of Centre Creek — On Spring 
River — Building a Cabin — Gathering Hay for the AYinter — 
Abundance of Game — Hunting Adventures — Wild Hogs — 
Deer — A Dead Shot — The Osage Indians as Hunters — A Burn- 
ing Prairie — Vivid Description — A Herd oy Deer — Winter 
Evenings — "The Good Time Coming." 

About the middle of October we began our journe}- to 
Spring river, southeastern Kansas, and arrived about the 
20th of the same month, after a tedious and wearisome 
journe5^ During tlie two months that had elapsed since 
our first visit, hundreds of families had returned to rebuild 
or re-occupy their former homes. Very many found noth- 
ing of their former homes left standing but the chimneys ; 
and such were obliged to go into camp until they could 
provide themselves a permanent shelter. New comers 
were in the same category. Houses were at a premium, 
and not to be had at any price. Nine-tenths of the houses 
in this part of the country had been burned during the 
war. Our company went into camp at the mouth of 
Centre creek, on Spring river. As the winter months 
were close at hand, we went to work with a will, cutting 
down timber, hewing it, sawing it, and building therewith 
a shelter from the wintry storms. Right glad were we 
when the humble structure was completed. It was not a 
palace, but a home. Its roof kept off the rain ; its homely 
walls shut out tlie cold winds of the coming winter ; the 
fire blazed cheerity upon its generous hearth. What more 
did we need ? The dweller in marble halls lived not more 
royally than we. But work was essential. It was also 
enjoyable. It added muscle to the body, content to the 
mind ; it made our food SAveet, and our slumbers sound. 

Our party had brought with them a mowing machine, 
and, though late in the season, proceeded to gather a mn- 



jriSSOURI AND KANSAS. 95 

ter's supply of hay from the prairie, in all about ten tons. 
Two crops of this hay may be gathered in every year ; the 
first in June or July, the last in October or November. 
Our own supply of food was of course an important item. 
The nearest points at which we could obtain provisions 
were Fort Scott and IMonnt Vernon ; the former, fifty-five 
miles north of us, the latter nearly as far east. A few 
staple articles we w^ere obliged to bring from these places, 
but our supply of meat was cheap, abundant, and close at 
hand. The woods were full of game and wild hogs. These 
latter we had the permission of the farmers who were the 
original, or possibly original ow^ners, to kill. They were 
usually in good condition, and made excellent food. The 
game proper consisted of deer, wild turkej's, geese, ducks, 
etc. As the winter advanced, the wild geese and ducks 
migrating from the colder regions became more plentiful, 
and we had more than we needed. Although others par- 
ticipated occasionally in the hunting, for some cause the 
writer hereof was singled out as the Nimrod of the party, 
and duly authorized to make forays upon the swine, the 
deer, and the feathered tribes. This may have been com- 
plimentary to his skill as a dead shot, or, what is more 
probable, out of deference to his apparently delicate health, 
and inability to share in the heavier work on the farm. 
At any rate, duly mounted, armed and equipped, I sallied 
forth daily in quest of venison and other food, and met of 
course with various and exciting adventm-es. The element 
of danger was indeed wanting. No deadly encounter with 
a grizzly' bear, or pitched battle with a catamount, or peril- 
ous set to with wolves can lend a thi-illing interest to these 
pages. The hunter who should come to these woods and 
prairies expecting game worthy a Du Chaillu, would find 
himself sadly mistaken. That he would 

" Chase the antelope over the plain, 
And bind the tiger's cub with a chain," 



96 MISSOTJEI AND KANSAS. 

is more than doubtful. He would do no such thing. He 
would ride cautiously along a path, evidently beaten by 
domestic animals. He might possibly get a shot at a deer, 
or bring down a turkey, or a goose ; but in the absence of 
such game he would turn to the unfailing hog, game so 
ignoble, that he would consider the killing of such as a 
blemish upon his fair fame as a hunter. It is no better 
than slaughter to kill an animal that can neither fight nor 
run. Occasionally, however, a member of the swinish 
multitude can do both, and sometimes even a pig dies 
game. I was once riding out, armed only with a revolver, 
when a large hog jumped up a few hundred yards in ad- 
vance, and commenced running for the timber, nearly a 
mile distant. I gave chase and was soon near enough to 
lodge a l)all in his head. This only maddened him, and 
he turned and showed light, then ran, and whenever over- 
taken would turn to fight until another pistol ball sent him 
on his way again. His tenacity of life was wonderful. 
He kept up this running fight till eight pistol balls were 
lodged in his head and body, and after all he was not 
worth the killing, and I was obliged to leave his worthless 
carcass on the ground, amidst the jeers of my friends, 
who having heard my rapid firing, had come to see for 
themselves what magnificent game I had taken. Deer not 
unfrequently yielded up their lives in a manner as inglo- 
rious as some of these stupid Swine. Shortly after we 
camped at this place, a fine young deer deliberately ran 
up to within a few feet of one of our men, at work at the 
time, and was brought down by a bullet from a small 
revolver. Late one evening, a young man was returning 
in a wagon with some ladies, when two or three deer 
started up, ran a short distance and stopped in some high 
weeds, about fifty j-ards away. The young man taking a 
gun pointed it in the direction in which the deer were sup- 
posed to be, and fired. Hearing something fall, he groped 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 97 

his way out in tlie direction that he had pointed his gun, 
and to his astonishment found a Large buck struggling in 
the death agonies. The ladies helped him lift it into the 
wagon, and he drove on rejoicing in the success of his first 
shot. A true hunter would not, perhaps, enjoy the killing 
of game under such circumstances as the last mentioned. 
His enjoyment is in overcoming ditiiculties and the display- 
of skill, strategy, and in accurac3^ of aim. Oar primary 
object was to obtain supplies' for the table, and we were 
consequently satisfied Avith less brilliant exploits than 
would have satisfied the professional Nimrod. Neverthe- 
less, Ave felt, as the winter advanced, more and more the 
charm of this wild life, and the bringing in of a deer, or 
any game worthy of our lead, was always an occasion for 
congratulation. The Osage Indians came from the Neosho 
river, 28 miles west of our camp, and killed great numbers 
of deer in our neighborhood. These experiencd hunters 
would set the prairies on fire, and as the flames swept 
onward with the wind, deer, wolves, and other animals 
would flee before them only to fall at last by the unerring 
rifle of the Indian. A grander sight than these burning 
prairies I have seldom or never witnessed. At night, espe- 
cially, was the scene sublimely grand. The red flames 
sweeping over the grass with the speed of a race horse, 
the lurid heavens, the dense volume of smoke, itself almost 
as luminous as the flames beneath, the terror-stricken an- 
imals in tumultuous flight, formed a spectacle not easily 
forgotten. A "Western poet has most vividly described the 
scene : 

" Out of the wood at midnight, 

Tlie swift red liunters came ; 
The prairie was their hunting ground, 

The bison was their game ; 
Tlieir spears were of glistening silver, 

Their crests were of blue and gold ; 
Driven by the panting winds of heaven, 

Their shining chariots rolled. 



98 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

" Over that level hunting ground — 

Oh what a strife was there ! 
What a shouting — what a threatening cry — 

What a murmur in the air ! 
Their garments over the glowing wheels 

Streamed backward red and far ; 
And they flouted their purple banners 

In the face of each pale star." 

Our own most exciting chase occurred about Christmas. 
There had fallen about three inches of snow, the heaviest 
fall during the winter. Several of our party rode out 
together into the prairie, and encountered five or six deer 
that were coming toward us with the speed of the wind, 
evidently with the intention of taking refuge in the tim- 
ber. All attempts on our part to head them off" and drive 
them back into the prairie failed, and my comrades gave 
up the chase as useless. I followed them still farther, 
hoping to catch a glimpse of one and to obtain a shot, 
when, unexpectedly, I encountered a herd of twenty-six 
deer, standing upon the crest of a mound and gazing at 
me with evident curiosity and perplexity. The other 
members of the party meanwhile came up to them on the 
other side of the mound, whereupon, frightened by the 
number of my friends, they rushed toward me as being, 
probably, of no consequence, and for a while it seemed as 
if I should be trampled under foot bj^ them. My good 
horse however, proved at once an obstacle to them and a 
protection to me. I spurred him as though I would join 
the throng of panic-stricken fugitives, and by a dextrous 
shot was enabled to bring down the hindermost, which 
proved quite an acquisition to our store of provisions. 

The winter passed awaj^ pleasantly enough. The long 
evenings were devoted to books, to conversation, and to 
such games of skill as chess and draughts. Occasionally 
we had a lecture, for Ave were resolved not to be behind 
the age in any particular. Although nearly secluded 
from the busy world we kept up a lively interest in its 



MISSOURI AND KiVNSAS. 99 

affairs, and perhaps relished what little information we 
received of passing events all the more because of tlic 
difflcultj' of obtaining it. Still we enjoj-ed our isolated 
position, and should have enjoyed it had we been entirely 
cut off from the great world, for we had what Crusoe on 
his island did not have, the companionship of sj-mpathis- 
ing friends. AYe spent our waking hours in healthy toil, 
or just as healthy recreations, in cheerful converse, and in 
listening to the rhapsodies of our friend, the philosophic 
Beam, who almost persuaded us that "the good time com- 
ing " had already come. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Expedition to Arkansas — Reding 's Mill — Neosho — Pineville — 
A Dilapidated Village — Camp on Big Svgar Creek — Beautiful 
Winter Scene — A Rich Country — Climate Mild — Myriads of 
Birds — Winter Grapes — Benton County — Absence of the 
School Master — Human Vegetables — A "Native" Rip Van 
Winkleism — Madison County — Carroll County — Fruit — Soil — 
Climate — Our Return to Spring River — Baxter's Springs — 
Fertility and Value of the Lands knoavn as the "Government 
Strip" — Conclusion — "Homes for All." 

There were discontented spirits in heaven, and as j^et 
no earthly paradise has been free from them. Man is 
restless, not so much from the infelicities of his position 
as from- a desire to extend the domain of his knowledge. 
The prince in the happy valley pined to cross the moun- 
tain walls that shut him in. The desire to know more 
tempts man away from the threshold of home. With no 
better excuse than tliis a few of us determined upon fui'- 
ther explorations, and to leave, for a time at least, the 
happy dwellers in the vale. About the first of Januarj^, 
1866, a couple of gentlemen from Allen county passed 



100 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

through our settlement on their way to northwestern 
Arkansas, and five from our neighborhood, inchiding the 
writer, joined them. Our first camp was at Reding's 
Mill, a description of which has been given elsewhere. 
The second day we traveled as far as Neosho, the county 
seat of Newton county, Missouri, and on the third day 
we entered McDonald county, and passed through Pine- 
ville, the county town. The country passed over on the 
third day did not impress us as favorably as that passed 
on the two preceding days. It was hilly and much of the 
surface was covered with a species of white flint stones. 
The timber looked well. Pineville is a sadly dilapidated 
village at the head of Elk river. The county of which it 
is the capitol has some good lands, but is thinly settled, 
and was almost depopulated during the war. There are 
within its limits some very large pineries, and several 
steam saw mills are at work cutting the timber into 
planks. 

We camped the third night on Big Sugar creek, three 
miles east of Pineville. Although it was in the dead of 
winter, the evergreen hills before us and around us almost 
cheated us into the belief that we were in a land of i:)er- 
ennial spring. The breezes murmured softl}^ through the 
rustling pines, and diffiised their balmy odors far around. 

As we were preparing to go into camp, a large flock of 
wild turkeys crossed the road a couple of hundred yards 
ahead of us. What a golden opportunity for a shot ! The 
birds were too fleet for our "mighty hunters," and the bul- 
lets sent after them had the only perceptible effect of has- 
tening their flight. I had a beautiful sunset view from the 
summit of the hills near by, one of the finest I had ever 
looked upon. On the fourth day, we traveled eighteen 
miles on the Bentonville road. The country through which 
we passed was fertile in appearance. The rich bottoms of 
Sugar creek were especiallj'^ attractive. We noticed here 



I 



MIS.SOURI AND KANSAS. 101 

vast quantities of winter grapes, luscious and tempting, 
millions of birds making merr}- over their endless feast. 
It seems as if the Author of all being, out of consideration 
for these little feathered songsters, had created this fruit 
as food for them during the dreary winter. We passed 
much delightful scenery. The hills along our route were 
covered with a fine growth of yellow pine, the timber from 
which, at no ver}- distant da}', must prove valuable. There 
are also to be found in these hills numerous indications of 
mineral, that one day may prove a source of wealth. 

Although the country is generally hill}^, there is occasiou- 
all}' a prairie a few miles in width, and rich and fertile as 
are most of our prairies. The remarkable mildness of the 
climate in this latitude, and at this season, rendered our 
winter tour very agreeable. We slept on the ground, 
with a few blankets beneath us, and were as comfortable 
as we would have been in June. The grass was green, 
and the buds on the maple and elm trees along the way 
were swelling as rapidl}- as in the northern States in April. 
The county (Benton) was thinly settled. The war had 
very materially interfered with its prosperity and retarded 
its growth. We saw but few people. Occasionall}^, we met 
with a genuine "• Arkansav/ traveler," sallow-faced, stoop- 
shouldered, lank, long-haired, angular, and awkward. The 
school master has not been abroad in this region, or at 
home either. School houses are very fcAV and far between ; 
in mau}^ places entirel}- unknown. What docs tlie " native " 
before-mentioned care for education, so long as he can get 
along witliout it? Nature has saved him the trouble of 
brain or hand labor. He lives on the good, free gifts of 
Nature. 

" Her trees in summer yield liim food, 
In winter fire." 

Where Nature does most for man, he does least for 
himself. The necessity for labor blesses those on whom 

6 



102 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

it falls ; idleness depraves and thoroughly demoralizes its 
unhappy subjects. Necessity sharpens the wits of men. 
The absence of it steeps their mental as well as physical 
being in indolence and dullness. There are places where 
men do not live in any true or exalted sense ; they simply 
vegetate as do the beets and carrots, lifting their heads it 
is true into the air and light of heaven, but rooted all the 
while to the sordid earth. An instance or two will be suf- 
ficient to show the low intellectual grade of these human 
vegetables. I passed one day a medium-sized dwelling, 
the general stj'le of which indicated an owner well-to-do 
in the world, and possibly one of the aristocrats of the 
neighborhood. The door stood invitingly open ; and wish- 
ing to rest awhile, as well as to form the acquaintance of 
the owner of the mansion, I approached the door, and was 
somewhat surlily invited to take a chair. The reserve of 
mine host wearing off, he became quite loquacious, and 
having been a rebel, he had a doleful story to relate of 
wrongs suffered at the hands of Old Abe, who was still, 
according to his account, violating the Constitution and 
ruining the country generall}^ and oppressing him in par- 
ticular, lie expressed the greatest surprise when I told 
him that the President had been dead almost a 3'ear. I 
asked him if the Arkansas Legislature had met during the 
winter. He did not know, but was certain they had not 
met in his neighborhood. If they had, he did not know 
it. He wanted to know if I was one of them fellows. He 
(lid not know the name of the county in which he lived, or 
whether it was a county or not. This man owned a fine 
farm and mill, and was probably a fair representative of 
the people of his neighborhood. A stoiy, not long since, 
went the rounds of the pa^iers, to the effect that a colpor- 
teur in this, or some of the adjacent settlements, asked a 
woman if there were any Presbyterians in the neighbor- 
hood. She, thinking that he referred to some species of 



»nSSOURI AND KANSAS. 103 

catamount, or other " wild varmints," answered that she 
thought not ; at an}' rate, her husband liad not killed any 
tharabouts for a long time. 

IMany of the farmers had no title to their lands other 
tlian a squatter's title, and in other instances they had 
entered and improved a few acres, but had laid claim to 
large tracts of land adjacent. We would not leave the 
impression that this part of Arkansas is dark and benighted 
beyond all other portions of our countr}-, for we liave in 
mind a very secluded " settlement" in Indiana, where it is 
said the people still vote for General Jackson on election 
day, and consider all accounts of the late war to be Whig- 
lies, gotten up to defeat the hero of New Orleans. If 
these people in Arkansas still voted for Jackson, it would 
perhaps be better for them. Rip Van Winkles are Avell 
enough in their way, and are not noticed as long as they 
continue to slumber, but when they awaken the}' become 
ridiculous, and utterly fail, as these people do, to compre- 
hend the situation. 

Madison county, through which we next passed, did not 
very favorably impress our regard. It is well watered by 
King's river and its tributaries, and has plenty of timber, 
but it is mountainous and thinl}^ settled. Carroll county, 
lying east of Madison, is hilly, but well timbered and 
improved. It has on the hills abundance of pine, and in 
the bottoms a fine growth of oak. Grapes flourish here, 
and some of the oldest inhabitants told me that the peach 
crop has never been known to fail, and that apples and all 
the fruits of this latitude do equally well. The country 
has also mineral resources that some day ma}^ be profitabl}' 
developed. We satisfied ourselves as to the healthfulness 
of the climate, and returned to our friends with a good 
report of the country. Leaving the people out of the 
question, the part of Arkansas that we visited offers very 
decided advantages to those seeking a home. It is salu- 



104 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

brious, and though hilly, Avell timbered, and a rich fruit 
growing region. There are small prairies well adapted to 
farming and grazing. Cotton, hemp, tobacco, and all 
kinds of grain grow here. There are plentiful indications 
of iron, lead, and copper. There are, in fact, few countries 
to be found equaling this in the richness and variety of 
its resources. To crown this exuberance of advantages, 
there are great quantities of government land not yet 
entered. Of course, many or most of the advantages 
named are shared by the contiguous counties in Missouri 
and Kansas, and in these States there are as yet greater 
social and political freedom and security. To enjoy the 
fairest' regions of the earth, we must forego many of the 
privileges and blessings enjoyed in localities not so well 
favored by nature. The emigrants from the older States 
must leave their churches and school houses, and other 
appliances of civilization, and come to a country as yet 
comparatively destitute of them. But let them only come, 
and the others will follow in their train. It is only a 
question of time. This broad and beautiful country will 
be — must be — reclaimed. 

We returned to our friends at Spring river, and made 
our report after the manner of the spies when they re- 
turned from the land of Canaan, not omitting mention of 
the Canaanites who dwelt over the border. 

In March, I visited Baxter Springs, on the government 
strip, which consists of a piece of land three miles in 
width and twenty-five miles in length, lying south of the 
Cherokee neutral lands, and east of the Neosho river. 
This country abounds in coal, oil, and timber, and has 
besides a fertile soil. South of this strip dwell the small 
tribes of Pawpaws and Delawares, with a few other tribes 
nearly extinct. They are partially civilized, and speak 
enough English to carry on trading transactions. 

It is difficult to speak of this country without praising 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 105 

it. It is difficult to praise it justly without seeming to 
exaggerate its merits, and we shall, therefore, leave much 
unsaid. We do not ask the emigrant to accept our report 
without question. We may point out localities that will 
be found on examination to be all that we could desire, 
but he must, after all, judge for himself. Here is a 
l)road, beautiful, fertile country, open to all — inviting 
all. AVould any one know more of its beauties, let him 
come and see. 

We can not better close this imperfect description of 
this pleasant land, than by quoting entire a poem pub- 
lished anonymously, many years ago, in the Philadelphia 
Dollar Neii'spaper. True and spirited as it then was, it 
is now a hundred fold more applicable : 

"HOMES FOR ALL." 

" Let the staid old East in her pride grow gray, 

In an ardent song sing of days gone by ; 
Let her build her domes, stow her wealth away, 

And point to the graves where our forefathers lie — 
We will turn to the West, the strong young West, 

To the wilds that rang to the panther's call, 
To the sods the red man's feet have pressed, 

To the homes for the million — homes for all. __ 

"Let her sing of her Hudson's silvery sheen. 

Of her clear blue lakes and crystal rills. 
Of her rugged mountains, her valleys green, 

Of her blossoming meads, her emerald hills — 
We will shout for the West, the gay young West, 

For the vales where the sunset shadows fall. 
For the broad bright prairies in ileauty dressed, 

For the homes for the million — homes for all. 

"Let her sing of the deeds of Adams and Jaj-, 

Of the time when the souls of her sons were tried ; 
Let her turn to battlements worn and gray. 

Where her warriors fought and martyrs died — 
We will sing of the West, the blithe young West, 

Where the lierdsman lustily shouts his call. 
While his flocks come bounding in hosts abreast, 

Of the homes for millions — homes for all'. 



106 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

"Let her point her sons to the Plymouth rock, 

To the pilgrim band by the desolate sea, 
Who dared the waves and the tempest's shock, 

For the glorious guerdon of liberty — 
We have Iniilded our homes in the wide, free West, 

Where a serf never lists to a tjTant's call ; 
And we shout to the world with a hearty zest, 

Here arc homes for her millions — homes for all. 

"Then adieu, to the East, the gray old Easlr, 

We have builded our hearths where the wild grass waves ; 
We have taken the lairs of the frightened beast. 

And we rest by the red men's sunken graves ; 
We arc strong in will with a yeoman's zest. 

And smile at the pride of a marble hall ; 
We have homes in the West, in the wild, wide West, 

And enough for the million — enough for all." 



IMPORTANT QUESTIONS ANSWERED. 



As I am in dail}' receipt of letters asking almost innu- 
merable questions, and as I can not take the time to 
answer each separately, it may not be amiss to devote a 
few pages to the answer of such questions as shall be of 
general interest to the capitalist and emigrant. 

A capitalist writes : '• Tell me candidly what j'ou think 
of the Southwest : will railroads be constructed, and land 
and property advance in value in the same proportion as 
it has in Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and other States 
in the last ten years?" 

Yes ; railroads wdl be constructed as fast as the people 
demand them ; /. e., as fast as stock, grain, and the south- 
western minerals demand an entrance to Eastern markets. 
The enterprising people of the Southwest appreciate too 
well the advantage of having the " iron horse " snorting 
through their hills and vallej's to remain there long with- 
out him. It is enough for me to say, that this countrj- is 
being filled up with the " universal Yankee." Thej^ will 
not long endure the tard}' motion of the stage coach. 
Several railroads are already constructed through this 
part of Missouri and Kansas, and several others are 
under contemplation, some of them under construction. 

As to the increase in value of real estate, I do know 
that with the advancement of the age, scientific improve- 
ments advance, and population increases ver}^ rapidl}'. 
New States, and especiallj^ Missouri and Kansas, arc 
being settled much faster than the preceding ones were. 
Of course the valuation of their lands must increase at 



108 MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 

a corresponding ratio. Remember, this is eminently a 
" progressive age." 

Another writes : " How are political matters : are the 
people Radical or Conservative ? " 

I am aware this is a critical question — one which demands 
a candid answ^er. Let me say, this countiy is filled with 
just such people as 3-ou send it from older States, and the 
crossing of the "Father of Waters" has not eftected a 
great political or religious change in their sentiments. 
The people of this country are both Radical and Conserva- 
tive. Each party, in my judgment, has its radical and 
conservative elements ; that is, thej^ are mixed ; and each 
party is represented in every village and hamlet in the 
Southwest. Further, it is my opinion, that each part}' is 
beginning to look beyond mere partj^ to the truths of the 
higher law. 

Third question : " We hear of mobs, of regulators, and 
their hanging men ; of men being killed, etc. Is it safe 
for strangers to go to that country : is there not danger 
of their being mobbed, or waylaid, or robbed ? " 

In answer to this, I will state the fact, that I have 
traveled constantly for the last tw^o years through the 
Southwest. At times I have pursued my journey by night 
and day, alone and with companj^ ; at times have carried 
thousands of dollars, and I have never been molested, nor 
have I seen any very suspicious looking men or women. 
I do know that small countrj^ papers have blown quite a 
good deal over some xcry heroic deeds of certain good but 
misguided persons, calling themselves Regulators^ who, 
like " Saul of Tarsus," verily thought it their duty to 
resort to brutal measures to enforce the will of God. Like 
Paul, when the scales shall have fallen from their eyes, 
they will see that instead of enforcing the waj^s of heaven, 
and bringing the millennium by means of their mobocratic 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 109 

reign, they will learn tliat they have only kindled a fire in 
which many of themselves must be consumed. Such will 
eventually learn, as all must, that the only effective Avay 
of overcoming evil is in good. All evil has its foundation 
in ignorance ; therefore, as a knowledge of truth and right 
increase, evil gives place to its opposite. Hence, I say, 
let the countiy be filled with law-abiding, intelligent citi- 
zens, who are capable of demonstrating in their daily lives 
that " God's ways are ways of pleasantness, and all his 
paths are peace." 

Pardon this digression. SuHice it to say, that many 
of the newspaper reports concerning the work of the 
Regulators have been grently exaggerated. A scarcity of 
items of news has probably been the cause. Really, I 
would feel more safe in traveling through Missouri and 
Kansas than in many of the older States, where robbers 
and gamblers crowd the streets and public places of the 
crowded cities, ever on the lookout to take advantage of 
the unwary. 

Another writes : "I am a common laborer ; is there a 
plenty of work to do in that new country, and what are 
wages ? " 

I answer : Every avocation open for man generally is 
open here. AVages range anywhere from fifty cents to 
five dollars per day. There are here, as in all other coun- 
tries, land sharks and speculators, who go on the principle, 
" Get all 3'ou can and keep all j'ou get." Still the im- 
provement of farms, building of towns, cities, and rail- 
roads, and developing of the latent mineral resources of 
the gi-eat Southwest, keeps up an unceasing demand for 
laborers. I feel quite safe in saying, that the demand for 
laborers is quite as great in these parts at this time as in 
any other part of the Union. There is a great demand 
for miners. For particular information upon this point. 



110 MISSOURI AKD KANSAS. 

address a private letter to C. C. Root, or W. W. Donliam, 
Springfield, Mo. Hovrever, I can not close this paragraph 
without premising that the best opening of all is for the 
farmer. Those who come determine. i to subdue the earth, 
have here a climate, water, and soil all bidding them come. 

Another writes : " What of the society' of that new 
countr}^ : are the people morally on a level with those of 
older States ? " 

That, kind reader, depends much upon who gives the 
decision. The people here have been torn from theu' old 
associations, and new ones are continually being formed. 
" Our minister," " our church," and " our creed," are not 
held in quite the same reverence as in older States. This 
may be regarded as a blessing, or a curse ; much depends 
upon the eyes through which it is seen. To the one wear- 
ing green goggles, everj^thing is green. To the individual 
looking through old institutions, everything not j^artaking 
of them is, of course, not so well. While others, looking 
through other goggles, will saj' it is better. It is not the 
object of this book to judge of such matters ; it is enough 
that I state facts as they are concerning the great South- 
west. Perhaps the number of opinions concerning the 
moral status of this country could only be limited by the 
number answering the question. 

" The blind man never sees the sun, 
Altho' the sun doth shine ; 
The deaf man never hears the somid 
In melodies sublime." 

The soil, climate, water, timber, and people of the 
Southwestern portion of Missouri and Kansas offer such 
a diversity, that he who could not, in some part of it, find 
that which suited him, would be indeed hard to please. 
The broad acres, rich mines, and people of this country 
unite in inviting emigrants to its extended resources. 



MISSOURI AND KAKSAS. Ill 

Come with energ_y and muscle, and by labor prove the 
divinity of the saying, " The wilderness shall blossom as 
the rose." 

Still another writes : " AYhat of churches and schools ? " 
I answer : Everj' church is represented. There are 
"isms," and " ites," under every shade and name, from 
the Calvinist to the Spiritualist. AVhy should there not 
be? Our country is filled with such as once resided in 
the older States, about the onl}^ difference being, those 
coming here are usually men and women of energ}', while 
many in the older States simply remain there because of 
a lack of energy to get awa}-. The breaking up of old 
and forming of new relations, has caused manj- to grow 
wiser, and to see that there is truth, goodness and purit}- 
outside their own party ; and many are loving truth, purity 
and goodness for its own sake, not for the sake of a par- 
ticular church or creed. Forms and ceremonies are more 
rapidly in this than in other countries, giving place to true 
Christianitj'- ; men are looking more at the true spirit- 
work, becoming progressive Christians, and see their duty 
more each day in carrying a vital principle of godliness 
into their daily dealings with their fellow men than in 
external forms and ceremonies. 



THE HOMESTEAD LAW. 



There are j^et over 3,000,000 acres of United States 
government land in Missouri snhject to entry at $1.25 and 
$2.50 per acre, or subject to entry under the liberal provi- 
sions of the Homestead Act. For the purpose of furnish- 
ing the often desired information to immigrants, the law 
to secure homesteads to actual settlers is herewith pub- 
lished. 

Messrs. George W. Boardman, at Boonville, Mo., J. S. 
Waddell, at Springfield, Mo., and James Lindsaj^, at Iron- 
ton, Mo., Registers and Receivers of the United States 
Land Offices in this State, are prepared to receive appli- 
cations and aflidavits, the applicant paying the $10 fee 
stipulated in the act, and one per cent, as commissions 
to said officers, who will give any further information 
required. 

AN ACT 

TO SECURE HOMESTEADS TO ACTUAL SETTLERS ON THE 
PUBLIC DOMAIN. 

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United 
States of America in Congress assembled, That any person who is the 
head of a family, or who has arrived at the age of twenty -one years, 
and is a citizen of the United States,' or who shall have filed his decla- 
ration of intention to become such, as required by the naturalization 
laws of the United States, and who has never borne arms against the 
United States government, or given aid and comfort to its enemies, 
shall, from and after the first of January, eighteen hundred and sixty- 
three, be entitled to enter one quarter section, or a less quantity of 
unappropriated public lands, upon which said person may have filed a 
pre-emption claim, or which may, at the time the application is made, 
be subject to pre-emption at one dollar and twenty-five cents, or less, 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 113 

per acre ; or eighty acres or less of such unappropriated lands, at two 
dollars and fifty cents per acre, to be located in a body, in conformity 
to ihe legal subdivisions of the public lands, and after the same shall 
have been surveyed : Proviihd, That any person owning and residing 
on land may, under the provisions of this act, enter other land lying 
contiguous to his or her said land, which shall not, with the land so 
already owned and occupied, exceed in the aggregate one hundred 
and sixty acres. 

Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That the person applying for the 
benefit of this act shall, upon application to the register of the land 
office, in which he or she is about to make such entry, make affidavit 
before the said register or receiver that he or slie is the head of a 
family, or is twenty-one or more years of age, or shall have performed 
service in the army or navy of the United States, and that he has never 
borne arms against the government of the United States, or given aid 
and comfort to its enemies, and that such application is Jpade for his 
or her exclusive use and benefit, and that said entry is' made for the 
purpose of actual settlement and cultivation, and not, either directly 
or indirectly, for the use or benefit of any other jierson or persons 
whomsoever ; and upon filing the said aifidavit with the register or 
receiver, and on payment of ten dollars, he or she shall thereupon be 
permitted to enter the quantity of land specified : Provided however, 
That no certificate shall be given, or patent issued therefor, imtil the 
expiration of five years from the date of such entry ; and if, at the 
expiration of such time, or any time within two years thereafter, the 
person making such entry — or if he be dead, his widow ; or in case 
of her death, his heirs or devisee ; or in case a widow making such 
entry, her heirs or devisee, in case of her deatli — shall prove by two 
credible witnesses that he, she, or they have resided upon or cultivated 
the same for the term of five years immediately succeeding the time 
of filing tlie affidavit aforesaid, and shall make affidavit that no part 
of said land has Leen alienated, and he has borne true allegiance to 
the government of the United States, then, in such case, he, she, or 
they, if at that time a citizen of the United States, shall be entitled 
to a patent, as in other cases provided for by law : And provided further , 
That in case of the death of both father and mother, and leaving an 
infant child, or children under twenty-one years of age, the right and 
fee shall inure to the benefit of said infant child or children ; and the 
executor, administrator, or guardian may, at any time within two 
years after the death of the surviving parent, and in accordance with 
the laws of the State in which such children, for the time being, have 
their domicile, sell said lands for the benefit of said infants, but for no 



114 MISSOURI AND KAKSAS. 

Other purpose ; and the purchaser shall acquire the absolute title by 
the purchase, and be entitled to a patent from the United States, on 
payment of the office fees and sum of money herein specified. 

Sec. 3. And be it further enacted, That the register of the land office 
shall note all such applications on the tract books and plats of his 
office, and keep a register of all such entries, and make return thereof 
to the General Land Office, together with the proof upon which they 
have been founded. 

Sec. 4. And be it further enacted, That no lands acquired under the 
provisions of this act shall in any event become liable to the satis- 
faction of any debt or debts contracted prior to the issuing of the 
patent therefor. 

Sec. 5. And be it further enacted. That if, at any time after the filing 
of the affidavit, as required in the second section of this act, and 
before the expiration of the five years aforesaid, it shall be proven, 
after due notice to the settler, to the satisfaction of the register of 
the land office, that the person having filed such affidavit shall have 
actually changed his or her residence, or abandoned the said land for 
more than six months at any time, then and in that event the land so 
entered shall revert to the government. 

Sec. 6. And be it further enacted. That no individual shall be per- 
mitted to acquire title to more than one quarter section under the pro- 
visions of this act ; and that the Commissioner of the General Land 
Office is hereby required to prepare and issue such rules and regu- 
lations, consistent with this act, as shall be necessary and proper to 
carry its provisions into effect, and the registers and receivers of the 
several land offices shall be entitled to receive the same compensation 
for any lands entered under the provisions of this act that they are 
now entitled to receive when the same quantity of land is entered 
with money, one-half to be paid by the person making the application 
at the time of so doing, and the other half on the issue of the certifi- 
cate by the person to whom it may be issued ; but this shall not be 
construed to enlarge the maximum of compensation now prescribed 
by law for any register or receiver : Provided, That nothing contained 
in this act shall be so construed as to impair or interfere in any 
manner whatever with existing pre-emption rights : Aiid provided 
fw-ther, That all persons who may have filed their applications for a 
pre-emption right prior to the passage of this act shall be entitled to 
all privileges of this act : Provided further, That no person who has 
served, or who may hereafter serve, for a period of not less than 
fourteen days in the army or navy of the United States, either regular 
or volunteer, under the laws thereof, during the existence of an actual 



MISSOURI AND KANSAS. 115 

war, domestic or foreign, shall be deprived of the benefits of this act 
on account of not having attained the age of twenty-one years. 

Sec. 7. And be it farther enacted, Tliat the fifth section of the act 
entitled " An act in addition to an act more effectually to provide for 
the punishment of certain crimes against the United States, and for 
other purposes," approved the third of March, in the year eighteen 
hundred and fifty-seven, shall extend to all oaths, affirmations, and 
affidavits, required or authorized by this act. 

Sec. 8. And be it further enacted. That nothing in this act shall be 
so construed as to prevent any person who has availed him or herself 
of the benefits of the first section of this act from paying the minimum 
price, or price to which the same may have graduated, for the quan- 
tity of land so entered at any time before the expiration of the five 
years, and obtaining a patent therefor from tlie government, as in 
other cases provided by law, on making proof of settlement and 
cultivation, as provided by existing laws guaranteeing pre-exption 
rights. 

Approved May 20, 1862. 



W. W. DONHAM, 

Office, Uorth Side of Public Square, in Bank Building. 

Successfully prosecutes all claims against the United States, and 
State of Missouri ; and to all men in Southwest Missouri, and North- 
western Arkansas, who wish to engage in the Claim Business, wil^ 
furnish blanks, advertising matter, &c., and divide fees equally on 
claims taken. 



■VST. W. DOETHAM, 

SOUTHWESTERN MISSOURI ISUEANCE AGENT, 

SPKINGPIELD, MO. 

Represents some of the best Fire, Life, and Accident Insurance 
Companies in the United States, both Eastern and Western, among 
which is the " Cincinnati Home," and " Fire and Marine," of Ken" 
tucky, Fire Companies ; the " Globe Mutual," of New York, and " Mis- 
sissippi Valley," of Kentucky, Life Companies; and the "Western 
Transit," of St. Louis, one of the leading Accident Companies in the 
West. Also, the "Missouri State Horse Insurance Company," Pal- 
myra, Mo., insures live stock against theft, also against death by 
disease or accident. This is beyond doubt the leading Live Stock 
Company in the West. 



"SAT, "v^. iDOisrKc^nyL, 

SPRINGFIELD, MO., 

Owns and has for sale the following described lands : 
360 acres, lies twelve miles north of Warsaw, Benton County, Mo., 
on the main State Road from Sedalia to Springfield, Mo. 

280 acres of high, nice prairie, every acre of which can be culti- 
vated, and 80 acres of splendid timber. This can be divided so as to 
make two beautiful farms of 180 acres each. There is everlasting 
stock water, 45 acres in cultivation, and house on it, with well dug 
and walled. This farm is in a fine locality for a country hotel and 
wagon yard, also for a stage stand. An energetic man, with a small 
capital, can, in a few years, make a fortune on this farm. 



MINERAL AND FARMING LANDS. 



In Jasper county, comprise a body of sixty thousand acres, and are 
principally situated in the north and northwestern parts of the 
county. These possess all the desirable characteristics of the best 
lands of the county. The surface is gently undulating, never break, 
ing into blutfs or hills, but is remarkably well drained. Good springs 
are everj-where abundant. They are chiefly composed of the wel^ 
known " mulatto soil," which is imiversally preferred to all others, 
and successfully endures the severest tests of farming. Tlie belt of 
land in which these are located can not be surpassed for general pro- 
duction and capability of high and continuous cultivation. For alj 
the purposes of the farmer, fruit grower, and stock raiser, no lands 
can be better adapted. They are located in a county Avhich all admit 
to be the best in Southwest Missouri, and which is rapidly filling up 
with the most desirable class of settlers. Mr. Frazier, with his usual 
enterprise, has sent to Germany for five hundred families to be 
located on his lands. Land is steadily rising in value. These lands 
are offered to actual settlers at $10 per acre, on nine years' credit 
without interest, no payments required until the ninth year. Deeds 
will be made upon payment of purchase monej' at any time within 
the nine vears. 



TEAZIER'S LANDS IN TANEY COUNTY 

Consist of several thousand acres of the finest mineral lands in the 
county or State. All who have examined the region in which they 
are located testify to the exceeding abundance and richness of the 
lead ore. Trof. Swallow, in his Geological Report, states that 20,000 
pounds of fine ore were taken from a shaft but ten feet deep, and 
that a neighboring shaft yielded 170,000 pounds per week. New 
and extensive discoveries are being constantly made. No region 
can offer greater inducements to those interested in mining than 
this. Its great wealth is a fixed fact, and is only waiting to be fully 
developed. 

Apply to Wm. Frazier, No. 12 New Street, New York, or to O. S. 
Pitcher, Preston, Jasper County, Mo. 



FIRE Aisrr> m:akine 

INStTKANCE COMPANY, 

Home Office, S. E. (or. Fourth and Olive Streets, 

ST. LOTJzs, nyco. 



AUTHORIZED CAPITAL, $1,000,000. 



OFFICERS y^NT) DIKECTORS: 
GEOKGE STEWART, President. 

T. B. PARKER, Vice President and Sup't of Agency Department. 
W. H. ANDREWS, Cashier and Treasurer. 
G. H. DUNNING, Secretary. 
J. W. PARKER, General Agent and Adjuster. 
A. MAHAN, Assistant General Agent. 
J. W. MITCHELL, Attorney. 



This Company insures all classes of Property against loss or damage 
by fire and lightning, for a term not exceeding ten years. Policies 
issued on the Stock Installment and Mutual Plan. All losses equit- 
ably adjusted and promptly paid. 



S-KFERETsTCES. 



Hon. WM. r.rSIIOP, Treasurer of State. 
Hon. K. ,r. ()(;i.KSBY, (iovernor of Ills. 
Hon. J. K. SMITH, Hefjister of Lands. 
Hon. FRAN( 'I« KODMAN, Sec. of State. 
Hon. T. O. SMITH, Banker, Decatur, III. 
J. G. MCCLELLAND, Attorney at Law, 

St. Louis. 
\VM. A. BI! AWNEE, General Insurance 

Agent, St. Louis. 
Hon. C. C. SIMMONS, Attorney at Law, 

St. Louis. 
Hon. W. S. FIELDS, Attorney at Law, 

St. Louis. 
Hon. E. W. PRATT, St. Louis. 
GEO. STEWART, President, St. Louis. 
J. O. SLOAN, St. Louis. 



M. J. RYAN, firm of Mephaiu & Ryan, 

St. Louis. 
P. WONDERLY & CO., Commission 

Merchants, St. Louis. 
WM. B. THOMPSON, Attorney at Law, 

St. Louis. 
W. W. BUELL, Jlacon City, Mo. 
DR. WM. ENCILISH, St. Louis. 
DR. CIIAS. SPKACiUE, St. Louis. 
MITCHELL & KNIGHT, Attorneys at 

Law, X. ^y. Cor. Fourth and Walnut 

Streets, St. Louis. 
Dr. E. CLARK, St. Louis. 
CHAMI'HX, SMITH & CO., St. Louis. 
Hon. JOHN DONIPHAN, Missouri. 
BARTON ABLE, St. Louis. 



WESTERN BRANCH OFFICE 

OF THE 

HOME MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY, 

OF CINCINNATI, AT ST. LOUIS. 

M. L. HIGGINS, General Agent, 

SOUTHEAST CORNER OF FOURTH AND OLIVE STREETS. 



All of our Life and Endowment Policies are non-forfeiting after two 
annual payments. Dividends are declared annually, and paid in cash. 
Every person insured is a member of the Company, and is entitled to 
one vote for every $1,000 pohcy held. A ioan of one-half the table 
rates can always be had where the premium is over $40. No restric- 
tions on travel. The Home Mutual is purely a mutual company, and 
gives the full earnings of its business to its policy holders. Good 
terms offered to agents and solicitors for Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, 
Iowa, and Illinois. 

M:. L. HIGGHNS, General Agent, 

ST. LOUIS. :ivro. 



T. li. BrV'ERS. A. SCHWARZOTT. 

ItlVEIiS & CO., 

317 N. FOURTH ST., 224 N. FOURTH ST., 

Betw. Olive & Locust, S. E. Cor. Fourth & Olive. 

ST. Loxjis, m:o. 

OORNEE SIXTH STEEET AND WASHINGTON AVENUE, 

OPPOSITE TUE LIXDELL HOTEL, 

WHERE THE COMPORTS OP A HOME 

CJL.IT BE H-A.X) £"OE, .A-XjIj THOSE THJ^T IDESIItE. 
TERMS MODERATE. 

JOHN CA^Itli, Pi'oprietor. 



I 



THE STAR SHUTTLE 



PRICE, $25 TO S!00, fiCCORDING TO STYLE AND FINISH. 
IT com:bines 

Simplicity, Durability and Beauty, 

.A.ND HAS BUT 

ONE MOVING PIECE OF MACHINERY, 

STITCH ALIKE OK BOTH SIDES OF THE FABRIC SEWED, 

THAT WILL NOT RIP OR UNRAVEL! 
IT IS TKTJLTt' A. 

WONDERFUL ACHIEVEMENT OF IPESTIVE GEMUS AND MECHANIGAL SKILL! 

I^j!LTEITT:E3D 18S7. 

OrriOE AED SALES EOOM, 303 NOETH TOTJETH ST.,, 

ST. liOUIS, MO. 

S. E. HENDERSON & CO., Proprietors. 



FAST TIME BY THE INDIANAPOLIS LINE. 

ST. LOUIS, 

ALTON & TERRE HfiUTE RAILROAD, 

The Shortest and Quickest Konte between St. Louis and the East. 

SPRING AND SUMMER ARRANGEMENT FOR 1867. 

THREE EXPRESS TRAINS DAILY. 



Omniljuses call for passengers and bagscage, free of charge, and leave the 
Ticket Ollicc, new No. 105 Xorth Fourth Street as follows: 

No. 1 Eastern Express, 5.15 A. M. This train stops at Banker Hill 
for breakfast. Makingdirect connections forNew Yoik, Philadeli)hia, Bos- 
ton, Baltimore, Washington, and all Eastern Cities, from seven to ten hours 
in advance of the morring trains of com]ieting lines. 

The. bastern Express, leaving St. Louis Saturday morning, runs through 
to New York without any delay by Sunday intervening, ttventy-six hours 
in advance of all other trains. 

IWo. 2, Northwestern Express, 11.15 A. M., making immediate con- 
nection at Pana for Northwestern Points, about six hours in advance of all 
,oilier trains. 

No. 3, LigMmng Express, 4.30 P. M., beings the well known fast 
train to the East, a specialty of this line for the past eight years. 

Sunday Train at 4.30 P. M. 

Friday Afternoon Train runs through to New York without deten- 
tion. 

Special Notice — Passengers leaving St. Louis at 4.30 P. M. in the 
splendid and popular Sleeping Cars of this line, enjoy a comfortable night's 
rest, arriving at Indianapolis at a seasonable hour "(5. 15) the next morning, 
where they change cars in a Union Depot. 

To those traveling for business or pleasure, (especially with families,) this 
route oilers advantages possessed by no competing line. 

Splendid State Eoeni and Section Sleeping Oars on all 
Night Trains. 

ALL CHANGES OF CARS IN UNION DEPOTS. 

TO SECURE FAST TIME AND PROMPT CONNECTIOKS, BE SURE TO 
PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS 

wxj^ iisrnDij^iNrj^:poi-.is, 

AT THE COMPANY'S OFFICE, 

NEW Xo. 10.> (OLD No. 32,) N. FOIRTII STREET, ST. lOUIS. 

F. M. COLBUBN, H. C. MOORE, ED^AT'D VERNON, 
Ticket Agent. den'tSupt, Gen' I Ticket A gt. 



CHAS. E. HABWOOD. JNO. W. LISENBET, COL. S. II. BOYD, 

Late Lt. Col. 8th Mo. Cavalry. Late Judge Circuit Court. 

HARWOOD, LISENBEY & CO., 

XVX4A.L iliOxilXxt iilxXiJNlXo 

FOK 

SOUTHWEST MISSOURI, 

AND AGENTS FOR 

Atlantic and Pacific Railroad Lands, 



LARGER LIST THAN ANY OTHER FIRM IN. 
SOUTHWEST MISSOURI. 



.«♦•♦» 



Any Business Connected with tlie United States land Offlcei 
Promptly Attended to. 

Taxes Paid. Investments made for Non-Residentsi 
with care and fidelity. 



HARWOOD, LISENBEY & CO., 

REFER, BY PERMISSION, TO 

Gov. T. C. rietcher ; Hon. Geo. W. Julian, of Ind.; 

Gov. Stone, of Iowa ; General Fremont ; 

Gov. Oglesby, of Illinois ; General Garfield, of Ohio. 

Office, North Side of Public Square, 

SPRINGPTELD, MO. 



TOPEKA, KANSAS. 

E. c. 'Ki. (3rJL^^'v:Erz', 

PROPRIETOR. 



JOHN FYFFE, 

ATI illl¥ AT IiAW, 

SPRINGFIELD, MO. 

Collections made and promptly remitted. Land purchased and 
sold, or managed for absent proprietors. 



BEFEREKCES. 



Messrs. MOODY, JHCHEL & CO.. St. Louis. 
Messrs. S. C. DAVIS i CO,, St. Louis. 



Messrs. BARR, DUNCAN & CO., St. Louis. 
PETER ZINN, ESQ., Cincinnati, Oliio. 



Atlantic and Pacific Railroad. 



Trains Leave the Pacific Railroad Company's Depot on 
Seventli Street, 

Making direct connections at Pacific with the Atlantic and Pacific 
Kailroad for Jerome and all intermediate points. 

Stages connect at Jerome for Waj'nesville, Lebanon, Springfield, 
Hartsville, and Neosho ; also, for Salem and the Sonthwest gener- 
ally. 

Passengers by this route arrive at Springfield seven hours in ad- 
vance of any other. 

Freight for points on this road is received at the Freight Depot of 
the Pacific Railroad in St. Louis. 

Information regarding the general business of the road can be re- 
ceived at the ofiice, No. 221 South Fourtii Street, corner of Myrtle. 

WM. B. BENSON, Superintendent. 



m 



^^ 



mi 



(OF MISSOURI.) 



o'nIjY' all rail lihe 

TO 

KANSAS CITY 

LAWRENCE, TOPEKA, MANHATTAN, 

AND 



AND DIRECT ROUTB TO 

WESTON, ATCHISON AND ST. JOSEPH. 



TWO THROUGH TRAINS 

.LEA.VE ST. LOUIS 

AS FOLLOWS: 

Mail Train Every Morning, Except Sunday. 

Express Train Every Evening, Except Saturdays 

SLEEPING CARS ON EXPRESS TRAINS. 



THROUGH TO LEAVENWORTH, WITHOUT CHAN6E. 

Connecting at WYANDOTTE willi Trains on Union Pacific Railway, 

FOB LAWBiM©i, T@PiE</^, 

Manhattan, Port Riley & Junction City. 

SLEEPING CAB BERTHS can be secured at the 

Ticket Officer 42 Fo-artla Street, 

Under the I'lanters' House, St, Zouis, 

And at the Depot, Corner of Seventh and Poplar Streets. 

■W. O. LEWIS, C. 3Sr. PBATT, T. McKISSOCK. 

Gen'l Ticket Agent. Passenger Agent. Superintendent. 



■-NO, SiMfv, 




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